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2020年最值得去的52个地方(五)

52 Places to Go in 2020(5)
2020年最值得去的52个地方(五)

41. Minorca, Spain

41. 西班牙,美诺卡岛

A sustainable and art-driven future for aUNESCO heritage island

联合国教科文组织遗产岛的可持续发展和艺术驱动的未来
 

Beloved for its wild landscapes and unspoiled beaches, Minorca, the second-largest of Spain’s Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean Sea and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, is preparing to draw an artistic crowd in 2020. Hauser & Wirth, among the world’s top contemporary galleries, will debut a massive arts center on Isla del Rey, an islet tucked into the port of Mahón, within a defunct 18th-century naval hospital and its outbuildings. The gallery promises to contribute to the hospital’s full restoration and preserve the area’s ecosystem through gardens designed by the acclaimed landscape artist Piet Oudolf. With rotating exhibitions, educational activities to engage the local community, a residency program and an on-site locavore restaurant, the gallery’s arrival complements the island’s strict focus on conservation and slow tourism. In lodgings, visitors have more choice as boutique hotels are sprouting that put sustainability at heart, too. Opened late last summer, Menorca Experimental is a 43-room farmhouse surrounded by wild gardens, while Torre Vella and Santa Ponsa are two secluded fincas (agricultural estates with ancient farmhouses) that have been painstakingly restored. Spanning 740 acres of working farmland that produce olive oil, aromatics and organic vegetables, both make for stylish bases to explore as locals do — slowly.

美诺卡岛是地中海的西班牙巴利阿里群岛中的第二大岛,也是联合国教科文组织的生物圈保护区,因其自然风光和未受破坏的海滩而备受喜爱,正准备在2020年吸引一批艺术爱好者前往。包括Hauser & Wirth在内的多家世界顶级当代画廊将在马洪港的德雷岛(Isla del Rey)上开设一个大型艺术中心,该中心位于一座已废弃的18世纪海军医院及其附属建筑内。画廊承诺通过著名景观艺术家皮特·奥多夫(Piet Oudolf)设计的花园,为医院的完全复原和该地区生态系统的保护做出贡献。加之巡回展览、吸引当地社区参与的教育活动、驻留项目和本土风味餐厅,画廊的到来刚好与该岛对生态保护和慢旅游的重视形成互补。在住宿方面,实打实关注可持续发展的精品酒店不断涌现,游客也有了更多选择。去年夏末开放的Menorca Experimental是一座有43个房间的农舍,四周环绕着野生花园,而Torre Vella和Santa Ponsa是两处僻静的芬卡(finca,即拥有古代农舍建筑的农庄),都得到了精心的修复。这里有740英亩耕地,出产橄榄油、芳香剂和有机蔬菜,成为让游客和本地人都可以慢慢探索的风尚地。

42. Oberammergau, Germany

42. 德国,上阿默高

A once-a-decade Passion Play approaches its 400th year

十年演一次的耶稣受难剧迎来了它第400个年头


The Bavarian village of Oberammergau has a population of 5,400, but it is expected to pull in half a million visitors in 2020 with its once-a-decade Passion Play, which runs from May 16 through Oct. 4. The first performance was held in 1634 and, for the first time in the play’s nearly 400-year history, an equal number of men and women will participate this year in various roles. The five-hour narrative focuses on the last days of Jesus’ life — from the Last Supper to the crucifixion — and taps into the talents of more than 2,000 residents born and raised in the village. Christian Stückl, who directs the play for the fourth time, hopes to tell the story in a novel way with refreshed tableaux vivants, or “living pictures,” and an edited script that portrays Jesus as a figure “relevant to today’s world, who is with those marginalized by society,” he said. A partnership with the train operator Deutsche Bahn ensures late-night departures back to Munich, and there are specially discounted performances for younger visitors on May 8 and 9. Oberammergau is also known for its woodcarving legacy, and whittlers, or “Herrgottschnitzer,” take great pride in making wooden Christian motifs.

巴伐利亚州的上阿默高小镇拥有5400人口,但到2020年,这里十年才上演一次的耶稣受难剧(Passion Play)预计将吸引50万游客,演出将从5月16日持续到10月4日。第一次演出是在1634年,而今年是近400年时间里首次有同等数量的男性和女性演员参演。这场长达5个小时的演出聚焦于耶稣生命的最后几天——从最后的晚餐(Last Supper)到他被钉死在十字架上——发挥了在镇上出生和长大的2000多名居民的演绎才能。第四次执导此剧的克里斯蒂安·斯图克尔(Christian Stückl)表示,他希望以一种新颖的方式讲述这个故事,用鲜活的场面(或称作“动态画面”)以及经过编辑的剧本,将耶稣描绘成一个“与当今世界息息相关、与那些社会边缘人站在一起的人物,”他说。上阿默高还与铁路运营商德国联邦铁路(Deutsche Bah)合作,保证游客可以在深夜返回慕尼黑,5月8日和9日还会有针对年轻游客推出的特别优惠演出。上阿默高也以其木雕遗产而闻名,木匠们(或称做“Herrgottschnitzer”)都以制作基督教木质纹样而自豪。

43. Plymouth, England

43. 英国,普利茅斯

A revitalized port city marks a historic occasion

复苏的港口城市标志了一个历史性时刻


This is the 400th anniversary year of the Mayflower’s voyage from Plymouth to the New World, and this fascinating city in southwest England will mark the occasion with more than 100 events. Highlighting both the Pilgrims’ and Native Americans’ perspectives, they will include music, art, theater, dance, comedy and historical reenactments. (Plymouth, Mass., and other places will also take part.) Plymouth, which bills itself as Britain’s Ocean City, has been enjoying a resurgence in recent years. High-profile chefs have opened restaurants and wine bars on the waterfront, like Pier One Bistro, the Honky Tonk Wine Library and Bonne Santé, and the once-quiet Barbican district is now full of cafes and bars. There are hundreds of historic buildings, including the recently restored 16th-century Elizabethan House, once a “slum house” where as many as 58 people lived. (A new Mayflower Digital Trails app is available to guide visitors to historic sites). And this spring brings the opening of The Box, a striking new cultural precinct featuring a regional archive, a history museum and contemporary art exhibitions. The city has a massive Art Deco swimming pool next to a stunning lighthouse and an intact 17th-century fortress; nearby is England’s oldest gin distillery.

今年是五月花号(Mayflower)从普利茅斯出发前往新大陆的400周年,这座位于英国西南部的美丽城市将举办100多场活动来纪念这一事件。这些活动包括音乐、艺术、喜剧、舞蹈、喜剧和历史场景重现,将突出清教徒和美洲原住民的双重视角。(美国马萨诸塞州的普利茅斯和其他城市也将参与其中。)普利茅斯自诩为英国的“海洋城(Ocean City)”,近年来出现蓬勃复苏。各路名厨在滨海地区开设了餐厅和酒吧,比如Pier One Bistro、the Honky Tonk Wine Library和Bonne Santé,曾经宁静的巴比肯区现在到处都是咖啡馆和酒吧。这里有数百处历史建筑,包括最近修复的16世纪伊丽莎白时代屋(Elizabethan House),它曾是“贫民窟”,最多住进过58人。(一款新五月花号数字步行app可以引导游客参观这些古迹。)今年春天,The Box将会开放,这是一个引人注目的新文化社区,以地区档案馆、历史博物馆和当代艺术展览为主要特色。这座城市还有一处巨大的装饰艺术(Art Deco)泳池,旁边就是一座绝美的灯塔和一座完整的17世纪堡垒;附近则是英国最古老的杜松子酒厂。

44. Atlantic Forest, Brazil

44. 巴西,大西洋沿岸森林

A vast ecosystem gets a new hiking trail to highlight its importance

一个巨大的生态系统才有了新的徒步线路来强调它的重要性


Much of the world watched in helpless alarm last summer as unchecked deforestation sent huge swaths of Brazil’s Amazon rainforest up in smoke. Protecting more of Brazil’s — and the planet’s — precious resources is the premise behind a major, multitiered conservation effort now under way in the country’s Atlantic Forest. One of the richest ecosystems on the planet, the Atlantic Forest biome hugs Brazil’s eastern coastline, and is home to Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and more than 3,400 cities and towns. The effort, a proposed 2,485-mile hiker-friendly trail — half of which is complete — would formalize a continuous trail by connecting existing hiking paths through five states and raise public awareness of the Atlantic Forest’s importance and vulnerability. The conservation group WWF Brazil, which is leading the project along with private and public sector partners, believes attracting visitors will create more interest in protecting a public heritage and shoring up conservation efforts that have been weakened by Brazilian President Jair Bolsonaro. And these days it’s easier for citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and Japan to travel: Last summer Brazil waived visa rules for those visitors for up to 90 days.

去年夏天,世人带着无助的恐慌目睹了滥砍滥伐如何导致巴西大片亚马孙雨林化为灰烬。一项重要的、多层次的保护工作正在这个国家的大西洋沿岸森林中进行,而它正是保护更多巴西及地球宝贵资源的重要前提。作为地球上最丰富的生态系统之一,大西洋沿岸森林的生物群紧邻巴西东部海岸线,这里也坐落着里约热内卢、圣保罗等3400多个城镇。这项保护工作,就是为徒步爱好者建设一条长达2485英里的路线(已经完成了一半),它将通过连接五个州内现有的徒步路线来形成一条连续的路线,并提高公众对大西洋沿岸森林的重要性和脆弱性的认识。巴西世界自然基金会西(WWF Brazil)联手私营与公共部门的合作伙伴共同主导了这一项目,该保育组织认为,吸引游客将使人们对保护公共遗产更感兴趣,有助于加强被巴西总统雅伊尔·博尔索纳罗(Jair Bolsonaro)打击的保护工作。如今,美国、加拿大、澳大利亚和日本的公民来这里旅游也更方便了:去年夏天,巴西取消了针对这些国家游客的90天签证限制。

45. Belle-Île, France

45. 法国,贝勒岛

A pristine artistic haven inspires a new wave of visitors

质朴的艺术天堂吸引了一批新游客


The aptly named Belle-Île-en-Mer (“Beautiful Island in the Sea”), the largest island off the coast of Brittany, is on the cusp of a new wave of popularity. One of the greenest and most pristine destinations in France, it has recently seen the opening of excellent locavore restaurants, like the Japanese-born chef Haruka Casters’s Restaurant AO, and stylishly renovated hotels, including the 1880-vintage Hotel du Phare, whose refurbishment was led by the architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. A favored late-19th-century hideaway for artists like Claude Monet, who made its dramatic beaches the subject of many paintings, and the actress Sarah Bernhardt, who created a summer house from a disused stone fort at the Pointe des Poulains, Belle-Île is 45 minutes from Quiberon by ferry. An electric-rental-car service, inaugurated in 2019, is the latest in a variety of eco-responsible initiatives intended to preserve its natural beauty. (Others includes a specialized team that maintains the island’s 56 miles of hiking trails and rebuilds the dunes along its magnificent and strictly protected coastline.)

作为布列塔尼海岸外最大的岛屿,贝勒岛(直译为“海上的美丽小岛”)正迎来新一轮的旅游热潮。它是法国最绿色、最原始的旅游目的地之一,最近开设了许多非常棒的本土风味餐厅,比如出生于日本的厨师卡斯特斯·遥(Haruka Casters,音)的Restaurant AO,以及装潢时髦的酒店,包括始建于1880年的Hotel du Phare,由建筑师让-米歇尔·威尔莫特(Jean-Michel Wilmotte)负责翻新。从基伯龙乘渡轮45分钟即可抵达贝勒岛,这里是19世纪晚期克劳德·莫奈(Claude Monet)等艺术家喜爱的隐居之所,莫奈将其充满戏剧性的海滩作为他许多画作的主题,还有女演员莎拉·伯恩哈特(Sarah Bernhardt),她将位于波拉因角(Pointe des Poulains)的一处废弃石堡改建成了自己的避暑别墅。2019年开通的电动汽车租赁服务,是旨在保护这里自然美景的对生态负责(eco-responsible)倡议中最新的一项举措。(其他举措还包括维护岛上56英里徒步线路的专业团队,以及沿着受到严格保护的壮丽海岸线重建沙丘。)

46. Val d’Aran, Spain

46. 西班牙,阿兰谷

A once-remote Pyrenean valley gets adventurous

曾经遥远的比利牛斯山谷冒险乐趣更多了


Strapping on snowshoes used to be one of the only ways into this plunging Pyrenean valley during the winter. Access is now easier – it’s a pine-fringed 200-mile drive from Barcelona, thanks to improved roadways and a tunnel – but the Val d’Aran is still a culture apart. The centuries-long isolation preserved its medieval villages, Aranese language and pristine wilderness, which serves as the magnificent backdrop for an emerging outdoor adventure scene that remains largely eclipsed by the dazzle of Barcelona and the coast. The soaring Baqueira-Beret ski resort now has more than 100 miles of runs, with a recent expansion to its highest peak, Cap de Baciver, as well as off-piste terrain around Escornacrabes (“Where Goats Fall”). Refuel at lively wine bars and restaurants (this is Spain, after all) like Cinco Jotas Baqueira, where you can feast on ham made from acorn-fed pigs. The valley is also newly claiming summer, with hiking and biking trails that fan out across the Pyrenees, including an upgraded section of the Camino de Santiago and a new cycle path on the Garonne River. In July 2020, the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB), among the world’s most challenging foot races, is bringing its international competition to the Val d’Aran for the first time, along with festivities like the music-filled Baqueira-Beret Trail Festival.

在过去,冬天进入陡峭的比利牛斯山谷的为数不多的途径之一,就是穿上雪鞋徒步。如今造访变得更加容易,由于公路和隧道状况的改善,从巴塞罗那驱车200英里穿越松林地带就能到达,只不过,阿兰谷仍然处于文化分离的状态中。几个世纪以来,这里与世隔绝,还保留着中世纪的村庄,讲阿兰语(Aranese),原始荒野为新兴的户外探险提供了宏伟背景,只不过在巴塞罗那和海岸风光的耀眼光芒下,这里基本还是难出风头。高海拔的巴奎拉-贝雷特(Baqueira-Beret)滑雪度假村现在拥有100多英里的滑道,最近还扩展到最高峰巴基弗角(Cap de Baciver),以及埃斯科纳克拉贝斯(直译为“山羊掉下来的地方”)附近的非滑雪场地形。去热闹的酒吧和餐馆(毕竟这是西班牙)补充能量,比如在Cinco Jotas Baqueira,你可以尽情品尝用橡子喂的猪肉做的火腿。这处山谷如今在夏季也很热闹,比利牛斯山脉上开辟了徒步旅行和骑行路线,包括圣地亚哥朝圣之路(Camino de Santiago)的路段升级,以及加隆河(Garonne River)新的环行路线。2020年7月,实际上最具挑战性的竞走比赛之一,环勃朗峰超级越野耐力赛(Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc)将首次在阿兰谷举办,同时这里还会有处处笙歌的巴奎拉-贝雷特越野节(Baqueira-Beret Trail Festival)等活动。

47. Mongolia

47. 蒙古

Catch a glimpse of Mongolia before the rest of the tourists get there

在其他游客抵达之前先看一眼蒙古


If you’re looking for the one spot on earth to discover before mass tourism does, visit Mongolia in 2020. It might be hard to imagine this sparsely populated country becoming spoiled — but its tourist numbers are on the rise, and so is its infrastructure. Last year Mongolia attracted 530,000 tourists, up from 150,000 in 2000. Ulaanbaatar, the capital, is opening a new airport, scheduled for completion by the end of May. Financed by the Japanese government, it will accommodate triple the passengers of the current one. More direct routes from Asian destinations are expected, too. Today, Mongolia has more than 400 travel companies, 300 hotels and 600 resorts and tourist camps. The government is giving tax breaks to companies building hotels and has abolished licenses for tourism businesses. It even has a tourism slogan: “Mongolia — Nomadic by Nature.” Some popular activities include trekking, climbing, birding, horseback riding, camel trekking and yak caravans. Nearly every travel company includes the Gobi Desert on its itinerary. One great cultural event is the Naadam sports festival held in July. It includes Mongolia’s three most popular sports: Mongolian wrestling, archery and long-distance horse racing.

如果你想在大批游客到来之前发现地球上的某处好地方,那就在2020年去蒙古玩吧。很难想象这个人口稀少的国家会成为宠儿——但这里的游客数量的确正在增加,基础设施也在完善。去年,蒙古吸引了53名游客造访,高于2000年的15万。首都乌兰巴托正在启用一座新机场,预计将于5月底完工。这座机场由日本政府出资建设,可容纳旅客比旧有机场多了三倍。预计也会有更多从亚洲目的地出发的直飞航班。如今,蒙古拥有400多家旅游公司、300家酒店、600多个度假村和旅游营地。蒙古政府为建造酒店的公司提供税收减免优惠,并取消了旅游营业执照。它甚至还提出了一个旅游宣传口号:“蒙古——天生游牧。”在这里的一些流行活动包括徒步旅行、登山、观鸟、骑马、骑骆驼和牦牛旅行队。几乎所有旅行公司都把戈壁沙漠(Gobi Desert)列入了行程。7月举行的那达慕体育节(Naadam sports festival)是很棒的文化活动。它包括蒙古最受欢迎的三项运动:蒙古摔跤、射箭和长途赛马。

48. Juliana Trail, Slovenia

48. 斯洛文尼亚,朱莉安娜步道

A sustainably-focused hiking loop showcases a green country’s epic beauty

以可持续发展为重点的徒步环线展示了一个绿色国家的史诗级美景


Slovenia is arguably the world’s most environmentally conscious nation. In 2016, its chief city, Ljubljana, was named European Green Capital. In 2017, Slovenia became the first country certified as a “green destination.” So it comes as no surprise that this mountainous swath of land — the size of Massachusetts with a population of two million — recently put the final touches on the new sustainability-focused Juliana Trail, in time to receive trekkers for spring 2020. The 166-mile hiking loop, which circumnavigates Triglav National Park (and its 9,395-foot Mount Triglav) and connects villages throughout southeastern Europe’s Julian Alps, has a twofold raison d’être. One is obvious: to provide adventurers with a route traversing the country’s scenic highlights — like the photo-op-friendly Lake Bled, the emerald-green Soca River and glacial Lake Bohinj. But the path will also spread out visitor traffic, reduce tourist bottlenecks and bring more travelers to overlooked spots along the way. Responsibility, after all, is at the heart of Slovenia’s tourism master plan. “It’s not enough to love a landscape today,” says Janko Humar, director of the Soca Valley Tourist Board. “You have to proactively manage to preserve the future.”

斯洛文尼亚可以说是世界上最有环保意识的国家。2016年,其主要城市卢布尔雅那被命名为欧洲绿色之都(European Green Capital)。2017年,斯洛文尼亚也成为首个获得“绿色目的地”认证的国家。因此,这片与马萨诸塞州面积相当、拥有200万人口的多山地区,最近对以可持续发展为重点的朱莉安娜步道(Juliana Trail)进行了最后的整修,及时迎接2020年春季的徒步旅行者,也就不足为奇了。这条徒步环线全长166英里,环绕特里格拉夫国家公园(和园内海拔9395英尺的特里格拉夫山),并连接位于欧洲东南部朱利安阿尔卑斯山脉(Julian Alps)的村庄,有两重存在价值。其一很明显:为冒险家们提供一条穿越国家名胜风景的路线,比如适合拍照的布莱德湖(Lake Bled)、翠绿的索查河(Soca River)和博希尼冰川湖(Lake Bohinj)。与此同时,这条路也将分散游客量,减少旅游堵塞,将更多游客带到沿途被忽视的景点。毕竟,责任是斯洛文尼亚总体旅游规划的核心。“今天,仅仅热爱一片风景是不够的,”索查谷旅游局局长扬科·胡马尔(Janko Humar)说。“你必须未雨绸缪,保护未来。”

49. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

49. 埃塞俄比亚,亚的斯亚贝巴

A fast-growing economy is bringing sustainable tourism — and an expanded airport — to the Ethiopian capital

快速增长的经济为埃塞克比亚首都带来了可持续的旅游业和扩建的机场


Ethiopia, where coffee is said to have originated, where Stone Age ancestors first carved flint into tools and where churches were hewn into rock and perched atop cliffs, is Africa’s fastest-expanding economy. Nowhere is its rise more evident than in bustling Addis Ababa. Ethiopia’s capital has been named a 2020 World Capital of Culture and Tourism, and for good reason: Its treasures include Aksum, according to tradition the birthplace of the Queen of Sheba; a national museum housing traditional crafts and prehistoric fossils, and cathedrals including the copper-topped, neo-Baroque Holy Trinity and massive, mural-filled Medhane Alem, the second largest in Africa. The city has the first light-rail system in sub-Saharan Africa and an industrial and transportation sector humming with new eco-conscious energy. Public spaces have turned greener, and there are more eco-friendly lodges for tourists. Now Bole International Airport, once a tiny, chaotic transit hub, has had a $363 million renovation. Three times the size of its predecessor, the airport has a nearby five-star hotel and the capacity for 22 million passengers a year.

据说咖啡就起源于埃塞俄比亚,石器时代的人类祖先首先在这里把燧石雕刻成工具,用岩石凿出的教堂坐落于悬崖之上,而它如今是非洲发展最快的经济体。没什么地方比熙熙攘攘的亚的斯亚贝巴更能见证它的崛起。这座埃塞俄比亚首都被命名为2020年世界文化和旅游之都是有充分理由的:它的宝藏包括阿克苏姆,传说中希巴女王的出生地;收藏传统工艺品和史前化石的国家博物馆,还有许多教堂,包括铜顶新巴洛克风格的圣三一大教堂(Holy Trinity),以及非洲第二大的、全是壁画的梅德哈内阿莱姆大教堂(Medhane Alem)。这座城市拥有撒哈拉以南非洲地区的第一个轻轨交通系统,其工业和交通部门也都充满环保新能量。公共空间有了更多绿色,也有更多面向游客的生态友好型住宿设施。曾经混乱不堪的小型交通枢纽博莱国际机场(Bole International Airport)已经进行了一项耗资3.63亿美元的翻新工程。新机场的规模是其前身的三倍,附近有一家五星级酒店,年接待游客可达到2200万人次。

50. Transylvanian Alps, Romania

50. 罗马尼亚,特兰西瓦尼亚阿尔卑斯山脉

A celebration of old-growth forests in Europe

赞美欧洲的古老森林


To experience a piece of real wilderness without having to go to the ends of the earth, look no further than Romania. Of all the old-growth primary forest that remains in Europe, 65 percent of it is there. These forests, home to bears, wolves and an incredible array of flora and fauna besides, are found all around the country, but you could do worse than head to the Southern Carpathian Mountains, also known as the Transylvanian Alps, for the full experience. A visit to the Domogled-Valea Cernei National Park, or the Fagaras mountain ranges farther east, offers thousands of acres of truly untouched nature alongside opportunities for hiking, camping, swimming under waterfalls and more. Romania’s very decent roads (one of which, the Transfagarasan, is a destination in itself for motoring enthusiasts) make it possible to reach all of this, even on shorter trips. There’s never been a more important moment to see and celebrate these forests: Despite the efforts of conservationists including Britain’s Prince Charles, who called them “a priceless natural treasure in a continent that has long since destroyed most of its wildernesses,” logging continues, some of it illegal. Travelers coming in greater numbers could have a real impact, sending the message that these trees are worth more alive than dead.

想要体验真正的荒野而不必走到天涯海角,只需选择罗马尼亚即可。欧洲现有的原始森林有65%都存在于此。这些森林不仅是熊和狼的家园,也有数量惊人的动植物群,在全国各地都能找到它们的踪迹,但你若想体验完整的森林之旅,没什么比前往南喀尔巴阡山脉(也被称为特兰西瓦尼亚阿尔卑斯山脉)更合适的了。到Domogled-Valea Cernei国家公园,或在东边更远的弗格拉什山脉,那里有数千英亩真正的原始自然风光,还有徒步旅行、露营、在瀑布下游泳等等乐趣。罗马尼亚非常像样的公路(其中一条叫做川斯发格拉山[Transfagarasan]公路,本身就是机车爱好者的目的地)让即便是短途旅行的游客也能够抵达以上所有地方。没有比当下更重要的时刻来观赏和赞美这些森林了:尽管环保人士做出了努力,英国查尔斯王子还称其为“一个早已摧毁了大部分荒野的大陆上的无价之宝”,但砍伐仍在继续,其中一些还是非法。大量游客的到来可能会带来真正的影响,传递这样的信息,即这些树活着比死了更有价值。

51. Urbino, Italy

51. 意大利,乌尔比诺

Celebrate the life and work of one of Italy’s greatest Renaissance artists

赞颂文艺复兴时期意大利最伟大艺术家之一的人生和作品


This year marks the 500thr anniversary of Raphael’s death. One of Italy’s greatest Renaissance painters, Raphael lived in Urbino — in a perfectly preserved house just down the street from romantic Piazza di San Francesco. On the first floor is one of his first frescoes. In the 15th century, the house was a gathering place for some of the best artists and writers from around Italy. A show displaying some of Raphael’s greatest works in context with some other Renaissance artists began in October at Urbino’s Galleria Nazionale delle Marche and continues through Jan. 19. From April through the end of 2020, the city will hold trade shows, conferences and spaces dedicated to literature and dance. Today, Urbino’s artistic vibe is alive and well. In addition to boasting one of the world’s oldest universities (the University of Urbino was founded in 1506), Urbino is also considered Italy’s book capital because of its Institute for Book Decoration and Illustration. There’s a jazz festival in August. A walled city on a hill with numerous views of the underrated countryside of Le Marche, Urbino has everything Tuscany has — but at half the price and with half the tourists.

今年是拉斐尔逝世500周年。作为文艺复兴时期意大利最伟大的画家之一,拉斐尔就生活在乌尔比诺——一处位于浪漫的圣弗朗西斯科广场(Piazza di San Francesco)附近的保存完好的房子里。一楼就有他最早的壁画作品之一。在15世纪,这座房子是意大利各地最优秀的一些艺术家和作家的聚会地。今年10月,位于乌尔比诺的马尔凯国家美术馆(Galleria Nazionale delle Marche)将展出拉斐尔一些最伟大的作品,并和其他文艺复兴时期的艺术家作品放在一起,展览将持续到明年1月19日。从4月到年底,该市将举办贸易展会、论坛峰会和专为文学和舞蹈设置的公共空间。今天,乌尔比诺的艺术氛围充满活力。除了拥有世界上最古老的大学之一(乌尔比诺大学建于1506年),因为图书装饰与插图研究所(Institute for Book Decoration and Illustration),乌尔比诺还被认为是意大利的图书之都。8月这里将举办一场爵士音乐节。作为一座坐落于山上的城墙都市,被低估的马尔凯(Le Marche)乡村风光在这里一览无余,乌尔比诺拥有托斯卡纳所有的一切——但消费水平和游客数量都只有他的一半。

52. Glacier National Park and Whitefish, Mont.

52. 蒙大拿州,冰川国家公园和白鱼镇

A changing landscape in a warming world

变暖的世界里一处正在变化的风景


When Glacier National Park was created in 1910, there were 150 glaciers; today, only 25 still exist. As harsh winters and scorching summers continue to change the landscape of the park, it still offers jaw-dropping natural beauty, with 762 lakes, 175 mountains, 200-plus waterfalls and more than 700 miles of trails. And this summer will see the reopening of the Sperry Chalet, a beloved century-old wilderness lodge that’s been rebuilt after a destructive wildfire in 2017. To enjoy the nearly $9 million reconstruction of the 17-room dormitory, be prepared to make a reservation months in advance and then plan for a rugged hike up the side of a mountain to get there. While the chalet and other historic lodges are great base camps, those wanting to stay closer to civilization should head to Whitefish, an old railroad stop turned resort town, about 30 minutes west. Award-winning restaurants like Cafe Kandahar and boutique lodgings such as the Firebrand Hotel have opened in recent years, but this lakeside town still maintains its frontier spirit.

冰川国家公园(Glacier National Park)在1910年建成时,拥有150处冰川;今天,只剩下25处。虽然冬季严寒和夏季酷暑继续改变着公园景观,但它的自然之美仍令人瞠目结舌,有762处湖泊、175座山脉、200多个瀑布和超过700英里的游人路径。今年夏天,斯佩里小屋(Sperry Chalet)将重新开放,这是一处有百年历史的受人喜爱的荒野小屋,2017年被野火烧毁后进行了重建。要想体验这耗资900万美元重建而成的拥有17个房间的宿舍,你得提前几个月预订,还要计划一次崎岖的登山之旅才能抵达。虽然小屋和其他历史悠久的旅舍是很棒的住宿营地,但更想接近文明的人应该前往白鱼镇(Whitefish),一座由铁路车站发展而来的度假小镇,从公园向西大约30分钟车程即可抵达。像Cafe Kandahar这样屡获殊荣的餐厅,以及Firebrand Hotel等精品酒店近年来纷纷开业,但这座湖滨小镇仍保持了它的拓荒精神。
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