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斯德哥尔摩完美一日

Stockholm, and the Strangers Who Brought Me There
斯德哥尔摩完美一日

THE view was peerless but not pierless. I was sitting on the patio of the chic Hotel Skeppsholmen, which, located on an island in the middle of Stockholm, seems to embody all that’s good about a city that is roughly one-third water and one-third green space. I could see lawn, palisades, boats and ferries, very few tourists, Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval city, an amusement park built in 1883, important shrubbery, ducks.

眼前的景致无与伦比。我坐在时尚酒店船岛(Skeppsholmen)的露台上,这里位于斯德哥尔摩市中心的小岛上,它充分体现了这个三分之一是水、三分之一是绿地的城市的美妙之处。我眼前有草坪、篱笆、小船和渡轮,几乎没有游客;还能看到北欧保存最完好的中世纪城镇,一座建于1883年的娱乐公园,以及许许多多的灌木丛,还有鸭子。这里完全不像一个码头。

I fell into conversation with a bearded, 50-something stranger to my left, who asked me how I had stumbled onto this little slice of heaven. “A blogger,” I told him. Whereupon he snort-laughed as if to say: But this place is too exalted for the mere blogosphere.

我跟坐在我左边的一个留着络腮胡、50来岁的陌生人攀谈起来。他问我是缘何坠入了这一小块天堂中的,我说“是因为看了一个人的博客”,听后他扑哧一笑,那意思好象是:这种地方,他们博客圈的能知道啥。
 

上图,Nectar & Pulse博客的皮罗斯姐妹和克里斯托弗·海德伦德。下图,斯德哥尔摩户外风景,以及Spotted by Locals的博客作者娜塔莉·乌班斯卡。

“I’m sometimes the only person sitting out here,” he told me. “It’s Stockholm’s best-kept secret.”

“有时候,只有我一个人坐在这儿,”他对我:“这里是斯德哥尔摩被严守的秘密。”

“Better than the WikiLeaks bunker?” I asked.

“比维基解密还保密?”我问。

“Well ... ” he conceded, all mock gravity. “Maybe second best.”

“呃……”他装出一脸沉重状:“可能是第二保密的吧”。

What would happen if you traveled to a country you’d never been to and relied on suggestions from blogs and online locals instead of those from friends and guidebooks? Would you end up at a Star Trek convention? Trapped in a basement full of cat hair and moody Swedish folk singers? Not according to my visit at the Skeppsholmen.

如果你去一个从未去过的国家旅游,没有朋友和旅行指南的帮助,能依靠的只有博客和当地人的建议,会发生什么?你会闯入一场《星际迷航》(Star Trek)爱好者的集会吗?会困在一间地下室,到处飘着猫毛,旁边是喜怒无常的瑞典民间歌手?至少我在船岛逗留期间,没发生这种事。

I chose Stockholm for this experiment because it’s a city with a wealth of bloggers. Try Googling “Stockholm bloggers” and then get back to me next month, when you’ve finished reading. A fictional character like the hacker Lisbeth Salander doesn’t emerge from a vacuum — she’s the product of much feverish keyboard tapping, and I don’t mean Stieg Larsson’s. My hope was that by taking tips from young bloggers I’d immediately be plugged into hipster Stockholm and neatly dodge any Millennium or Abba walking tours — or indeed, any activity that might shed a light on sulky fictional hackers or the troubled marriage of Benny and Anni-Frid.

我选择斯德哥尔摩做这项实验,因为这个城市有很多人在写博客。用谷歌搜索“斯德哥尔摩博主”,出来的结果要是全部读完,得等到下个月了。像黑客莉丝贝·萨兰德(Lisbeth Salander)这种小说角色并非凭空而来——她是键盘飞击的产物,我指的并非作者斯蒂格·拉森(Stieg Larsson)。我希望听取年轻博主的旅行贴士,马上融入时尚的斯德哥尔摩,利索地躲开任何所谓的“千禧系列之旅”或“阿巴乐队之旅”。或者这么说吧,任何活动,只要它能让人联想起阴郁的虚构的黑客,或者是阿巴乐队成员本尼与安妮-福瑞德的婚姻解体,我都避之不及。

If Sweden’s uniqueness lies in its having long been a socialist paradise with a thrumming amount of business ingenuity — hello, Ericsson and Electrolux and Saab and Volvo and H&M and Ikea and Hasselblad — then perhaps it’s not a huge surprise that this is a country where a certain percentage of the population likes to sit in cafes, lavishing their blog posts and restaurant recommendations with the kind of attention befitting a sickly dachshund. The average Swede drinks 4.5 cups of coffee a day. Cue frantic blogging.

如果说瑞典的独特之处在于它多年来一直是社会主义福利的天堂,而且拥有数不胜数的商业创意——爱立信(Ericsson)、伊莱克斯(Electrolux)、萨博(Saab)、沃尔沃(Volvo)、H&M、宜家(Ikea)、哈苏(Hasselblad),上述品牌你们好吗?那么,这个国家另一个奇特之处是:有为数众多的人喜欢坐在沙发里尽情地写博客和餐馆推荐,其专注程度无异于一只病态的腊肠狗。瑞典人平均每天喝四杯半咖啡。难怪他们跟发了疯似地写博客。

“灵魂伴侣”陪伴左右

Back in New York, I’d fallen down the rabbit hole of Stockholm blogs. I’d gravitated mostly to two jaunty ones that feature — as is increasingly seen in other city-based blogs, too — insider tips given by locals. The first of these was Nectar & Pulse (nectarandpulse.com), a company that allows you, at 6 euros (about $7.35) a pop, to buy local hipsters’ insider tips to one of eight European cities and New York. Each of the locals — or Soulmates, as the site calls them — is identified by name and a title like “Shopaholic/Glamourgirl/Partyqueen” or “Breadbaker/Writer/Birdwatcher.” Each Soulmate — most of whom are in their 20s and have a kind of boho gorgeousness that screams “pool party at Alexander Skarsgard’s” — has filled out profile questions in which they describe favorite films, magazines, times of day and so on; seldom has one encountered more enthusiasm for Elle magazine and the films of Wong Kar-wai.

在纽约时,我已经一头栽进了斯德哥尔摩博客的兔子洞里。其中两个博客尤其精彩,让我看得欲罢不能——在其他关于城市的博客中,这两个博客的那种特色也越来越常见——那就是本地人提供的内幕贴士(insider tips)。Nectar & Pulse (nectarandpulse.com)是最早提供这种内幕贴士的公司之一。你可以从这家公司以每份6欧元的价格购买八个欧洲城市中的任何一个和纽约的内幕贴士。每个当地人——或者用这家网站的叫法,所谓的“灵魂伴侣”——都标明了自己的名字和头衔,比如“购物狂/魅力女郎/派对皇后”或“面包师/作家/观鸟者”等。他们大多20多岁,带着一种波希米亚的艳丽,叫嚷着“亚历山大·斯卡斯加德(Alexander Skarsgard)家的那场派对太烂了”。他们还都填写了一份调查,介绍了他们喜欢的电影、杂志、近况以及其他内容,这辈子你可能都没碰到过有人这么喜欢《Elle》杂志或王家卫的电影。

Before going to Stockholm for 12 days in April with my boyfriend, Greg, I bought tips from two Soulmates — the one who seemed the most like me (Collector/Photographer/Listener Kristofer Hedlund) and the one — or ones — who are the most like someone I secretly want to be (Bohemians/Pop-Princesses/Businesswomen Johanna and Nina Piroth).

四月份,在我跟男友格雷格去斯德哥尔摩进行这12天旅行前,我从两位“灵魂伴侣”那里买了内幕贴士。其中一个看起来最像我(收藏者/摄影师/聆听者克里斯托弗·海德伦德),另一个最像是我私底下最想成为的人(波希米亚/流行公主/女商人乔安娜和丽娜·皮罗斯姐妹)。

I was mailed two handsomely produced, color-photograph-bedecked guides, each 5 by 14 inches and each bearing about 30 recommendations for museums, restaurants, stores and bars. Both brochures contained a sort of prose poem in which the Soulmates described a perfect day in Stockholm. After a day of looking at art and eating and clubgoing, the mustachioed and soul-patched Mr. Hedlund plunges (presumably naked) into the bay at sunrise. The pale, waifish Piroth sisters, meanwhile, do a lot of brunching and picnicking whereupon “the dancemood takes over” and they engage in “ugly, early-morning dancing” until dawn.

我收到了两份制作精美、配彩色照片的指南,每份都是5x14英寸大小,提供了30个左右关于博物馆、餐馆、商店和酒吧的介绍。两份小册子还都附有一首散文诗,“灵魂伴侣”借诗描绘了斯德哥尔摩最完美的一天。在欣赏了一天艺术、享用美食、去夜总会消遣后,留着八字胡、下唇还长着一小撮胡须的海德伦德先生会趁着日落时分,(很有可能是全裸)跳进海湾里。而苍白、柔弱的皮罗斯姐妹则会大吃一顿早午餐,去晒晒太阳,等到“跳舞的情绪上来时”,她们会“在黎明时分大跳特跳,不管舞姿有多么难看”,直到天色将明。

I’d love to tell you that, on any given day during our trip, the previous day’s celebration of nakedness and dancemood prohibited us from getting out of our accommodations much before 8 p.m., but I recently turned 50. No, we hit 13 of Mr. Hedlund’s picks and 6 of the Piroth sisters’. Mr. Hedlund steered us toward the wonderful Fotografiska, the photography museum opened in 2010 inside a huge Art Nouveau customs house on the water. We marveled here at Marcus Bleasdale’s pictures of Uganda and Andre Kertesz’s pictures of Paris, as well as at conference rooms named “Annie” and “Cindy and Sally.”

我倒是不忌讳告诉你,只要是在旅行期间,要是头一天裸游了,或者纵情跳舞狂欢,第二天晚上8点前我们铁定起不来,而且最近我刚过了50岁生日。虽然没疯狂一把,但我们去了海德伦德推荐的13个去处,皮罗斯姐妹推荐中的6个。海德伦德指引我们去了美妙的Fotografiska。这家摄影博物馆位于海边一个巨型的、新艺术风格的海关大楼里,于2010年开放。马库斯·布里斯戴尔(Marcus Bleasdale)拍摄的关于乌干达的照片,安德烈·柯特兹(Andre Kertesz)拍摄的关于巴黎的照片,以及分别命名为“安妮”(Annie)和“辛迪和萨利”(Cindy and Sally)的会议室,都令我们赞不绝口。

We also enjoyed our Hedlund-inspired visits to the vegetarian lunch spot Martins Grona and to the well-curated Papercutshop, which sells books, magazines and DVDs.

我们听从海德伦德的建议,在Martins Grona享用了一顿全素食的午餐,还去了Papercutshop,这里销售各种精选的书籍、杂志和DVD。

Like Mr. Hedlund’s picks, many of the places suggested by the Piroth sisters were on the island of Sodermalm, the formerly working-class enclave now host to Stockholm’s bohemia. But if the seeming theme of Mr. Hedlund’s Stockholm is “Places Where You Could Hand-Roll a Cigarette Without Anyone Looking Askance,” the Piroth sisters’ is more “Places to Have a Stylish Nervous Breakdown.” At the vintage clothing store Lisa Larsson, hillocks of secondhand garments heaped on the floor suggested that Miss Larsson’s closet has been struck by an asteroid; at the wonderful Rosendals Tradgard, in a park, you buy your baked goods or lunch inside one of the garden center’s hot, pressure cooker-like greenhouses and then collapse at a picnic table or on the grass.

跟海德伦德的推荐一样,皮罗斯姐妹建议的许多去处也都在莎德玛(Sodermalm)岛上。这片小岛原本住的都是劳工阶层,如今住在这里的是斯德哥尔摩的波希米亚一族。如果说海德伦德眼中的斯德哥尔摩,其主题似乎是“自己卷根烟,没有人会斜着眼睛看你的地方”,皮罗斯姐妹的主题则更像是“优雅地精神崩溃之地”。在丽莎·拉尔森(Lisa Larsson)的古董衣小店里,成堆的二手服饰就堆在地上,好像拉尔森小姐的衣橱刚刚遭遇了小行星撞击似的。而在美妙的Rosendals Tradgard公园,你可以走进园艺中心里那个热得跟高压锅似的温室购买烘焙点心或午餐,出来后瘫倒在野餐桌或草地上。

A traveler could never rely solely on the Soulmates — when you are this beautiful, apparently, you do not traffic in practicalities like opening hours, phone numbers or prices; and you do not recommend hotels, because you are probably sleeping on the beach, a thin reindeer hide wrapped around you tightly, like a won ton. However, as a kind of gauzy inspiration, these guides provide aspirational guideposts and conversational fodder.

游客永远不能只依赖“灵魂伴侣”。当你只依靠那些美仑美奂的内幕贴士时,很显然,在行程中你就会忽略诸如开放时间、电话号码或价格这类实用信息。你也不会住推荐的酒店,因为你也许就睡在海滩边上,一只瘦弱的驯鹿就像馄饨皮裹馅似的,把你紧紧抱住。不过,这类旅行指南如同灵光一现,为你提供的是梦想的路标和闲聊时的谈资。

I loved — purely on the basis of his having listed Susan Sontag as one of his heroes — looking for signs of poserdom in one of Mr. Hedlund’s choices of places to drink Fernet-Branca (the yuppie-ish but centrally located Kaken). I loved — when we took a Piroth sisters-inspired day trip to revel in the stark beauty of the island of Sandhamn — coming to the realization that my personal equivalent of “the dancemood” is the joy I feel when I play along with “Jeopardy” at home. And I loved — even though many of their picks could be found in guidebooks — knowing I was hanging with the cool kids. But I did not love being turned away from the restaurant P.A. & Co. three times because my Soulmate Mr. Hedlund didn’t tell me I needed a reservation. Dude!

纯粹是因为海德伦德将苏珊·桑塔格(Susan Sontag)列为他的偶像之一,我开心地四处寻找路标,想找到他推荐喝菲奈特·布兰卡(Fernet branca)苦艾酒的地方(这里有点雅痞,位于市中心)。当我们按照皮罗斯姐妹推荐的一日游线路,沉浸在沙港岛(Sandhamn)惊人的美景之中时,我开心地在猛然间惊觉,自己对“跳舞情绪”的定义,就是在家里玩《Jeopardy》游戏时的那股子畅快劲儿。尽管他们的很多推荐在旅游指南书中也能找到,但当我发现自己与一群很酷的年轻人在一起时,我还是会很开心。但我不高兴的是连去P.A. & Co.三次都被拒之门外,因为我的“灵魂伴侣”海德伦德没有告诉我应该事先订位。害人啊老兄!

一切简直完美得有点过了头

Less romantic but even more helpful than the Nectar & Pulse guides was the Spotted by Locals blog. Here, a group of youngish locals write short blog posts about their city. (There are 41 cities covered, all in Europe.) No perfect days here, and I don’t know how any of these people feel about Wong Kar-wai or Fernet-Branca. But there is a good amount of information that you don’t find in guidebooks, almost all of it graced with information like prices and opening hours. We followed 15 of its suggestions, the greatest concentration coming from Natalia Urbanska, a contributor and culture maven who encouraged us to visit Stockholm’s premier venue for modern dance, Dansens Hus. We saw a piece in which an ominous, air-inflated 25-foot cube of parachute silk — imagine an inexorable marshmallow — ingested and then disgorged dancers. Dancemood: regurgitant.

比起Nectar & Pulse的指南,Spotted by Locals博客也许不那么浪漫,但更加实用。在这里,有一群年轻的本地人撰写他们所在城市的轻博客(一共涉及41个城市,全部在欧洲)。这里没有对完美一天的描写,我也不知道博主们对王家卫或菲奈特·布兰卡酒有何看法。但在其中有大量旅游指南书中没有的信息,而且几乎每条都配了比如价格和开放时间这类信息。我们听从了其中15条建议,绝大部分来自于娜塔丽娅·乌班斯卡(Natalia Urbanska),她是撰稿人,也是文化方面的达人,她建议我们去瞧一瞧斯德哥尔摩现代舞最重要的殿堂Dansens Hus。在里面我们看到了一个用降落伞布做成的立方体,它用鼓风机鼓起来,高达25英尺,样子怪吓人——想象一下,一只不断往上生长的大蘑菇是什么样子——它不停地将舞者吞下去,再吐出来。当时的跳舞情绪是:反刍。

But Spotted by Local’s best virtue is its practicality. Aaron Larsson, another contributor, directed us to Aplace Below, the Vasastan outlet of the clothing boutique Aplace, where last season’s clothes, some by young Swedish designers, are reduced by 30 to 50 percent; we bought a dove gray raincoat and a quilted, shabby-chic suit jacket. We agreed with Anna Ostman that the second bar, not the first, at the popular brasserie Sturehof is the one to go to, and saved about $12 when, per her suggestion, we ate at Sonja’s Greek on a Sunday night, when all entrees are reduced to 100 kronor (about $14 at 7 kronor to the dollar).

“Spotted by Local”博客最大的好处就在于实用。另一位博客撰稿人亚伦·拉尔森(Aaron Larsson)指引我们去Aplace Below,这是Aplace时装精品店位于Vasastan地区的折扣店,其中一些时装由年轻的瑞典设计师设计,上一季的衣服在这里就可以打五到七折。我们买了一件鸽子灰色的雨衣和一件衍缝的西装外套,样子复古又时髦。跟博主安娜·奥斯特曼(Anna Ostman)的看法一样,我们都觉得人气餐馆Sturehof应该作为晚上去的第二家酒吧,而不是第一家酒吧。她的建议还帮我们省了12美元,我们选了一个星期天的晚上在Sonja’s Greek吃饭,在这一天,所有主菜都可以便宜100克朗。

Mr. Larsson wrote that Judit & Bertil — a cozy Sodermalm bar that was the site of a political scandal a few years ago when Sweden’s secretary of state was photographed kissing a journalist while on duty — is unblemished by tourists and that it has a “ ‘dinner-at-your-alcoholic-friend’s-place’ kind of feeling.” I wholly concur, though, in my case, I was the alcoholic friend. Two aquavits under my belt, I fell, in plain view of Greg, deeply in love with the sly, stubbly 20-something bartender, a sort of Swedish Jude Law. Pointing at the cocktail menu, I blurted at Jude, “What is smultron? It sounds like a pornographic robot.” Jude, all smiles and indulgence, said, “It is not that. It is a wild strawberry.” Fifteen minutes later, I offered, “I see that your men’s room downstairs has no door. Discuss.” Jude: “There was a door on the old bathroom, but this is how the new one is. There is a second bathroom on this floor, with a door. It’s not for me to make judgments about which you choose.”

拉尔森在博客中说,在莎德玛闲适的Judit & Bertil酒吧中,曾发生过一桩政坛丑闻。那是几年前,瑞典的国务卿被拍到在上班时间在这里亲吻一位记者。不过这里对游客堪称完美,而且它拥有一种“‘在你的酒鬼朋友家里用餐’的氛围”。对此我深为赞同,不过以我个人为例,我才是这位酒鬼朋友。两杯烈酒下肚,我就晕晕乎乎,在目光如炬的格雷格看来,我已经深深爱上了那个淘气的、留着一脸胡子茬、20来岁的小酒保,他有点像是瑞典版的裘德·洛(Jude Law)。我指着鸡尾酒单,对裘德脱口而出:“smultron是什么玩意儿?听起来像是个春宫机器人。”裘德满面笑容,好脾气地对我说:“不是这样的。它是一种野草莓。”15分钟后,我又发话了:“我发现你们楼下的男厕没装门。跟我说说是怎么回事。”裘德回答:“我们原来的那个厕所是有门的,不过这个新的确实是这样。这一层还有另外一个装了门的厕所。你要挑哪个,请随意哦。”

During our stay, details like the doorless bathroom — anything that bespoke chaos or randomness or decay — seemed particularly vivid to me. So sunny and practical are the natives, so clean and efficient are the city and its subway, the Tunnelbana, that I longed at times for any vestige of grit or darkness. New parents get 480 days of parental leave?! Everyone I talk to seems to have a summer house on an island?! When I told the bartender at Snotty — a bar for rock ’n’ roll snobs in Sodermalm — that I could detect no condescension or attitude from him or his patrons, he proceeded to thank me!

我们在斯德哥尔摩停留期间,像厕所没按门这种细节,以及任何能带来混乱、无序或衰败的事物,在我看来似乎都格外生动。这里的人们是那么阳光,那么练达,这座城市和它的地铁,即瑞典语中的Tunnelbana,是那么干净,那么高效,我偶尔简直会渴望看到那么一丁点肮脏或黑暗的遗迹了。这里刚刚为人父母者能休480天产假!跟我聊过天的每一个人,好像都在什么岛上有座避暑别墅!我跟Snotty(莎德玛的一家受摇滚乐假内行欢迎的酒吧)的酒保说,从他或他的客人的脸上,我察觉不到一丝谦卑或敌意时,他竟然对我表示感谢!

Sure, I could point to the occasional sign of tumult — Sweden’s Social Democrats, for the first time in more than a decade, were deposed in 2006 and replaced by a center-right coalition under Prime Minister Fredrik Reinfeldt; we all know about Sweden’s high suicide rate and the oppressive snowfall and the heavy drinking and the ever burgeoning school of blood-soaked fiction. And yes, I had envisioned having a mental collapse at Lisa Larsson and Rosendals Tradgard. But, overall, to a visitor like me, Stockholm’s bright sun is fairly blinding. It can all seem a little too perfect.

没错,我也注意到在这里偶尔有一丝混乱的迹象。执政十多年的瑞典社会民主党在2006年下台,取而代之的是由首相弗雷德里克·赖因费尔特(Fredrik Reinfeldt)统领的中右派联合执政;我们也知道瑞典居高不下的自杀率和让人备感压抑的暴风雪、当地人滥饮的习惯,以及日益流行的血腥小说。是的,我也曾料想到自己会在丽莎·拉尔森的古董衣小店和开在花房里的Rosendals Tradgard里精神崩溃。不过总体来说,在像我这种游客眼中,斯德哥尔摩的明媚阳光真的会让人目眩神迷。看起来,一切简直完美得有点过了头。

给“完美的一天”留个白

I soldiered on. I had now canvassed the city through the eyes of seven strangers — a fact that had allowed me to find by Day 1 or 2 of our trip the kind of untouristed places that I sometimes only find by Day 4 or 5. (I was glad, though, that I carried a guidebook — I needed the maps; and when we stumbled onto a church, it was helpful to know when it was built.) But it was time to bump up my game: I needed to actually meet a blogger. An American friend, having heard what I was after, put me in touch with Emi Guner, a 40-year-old mother of three who has lived in or near Stockholm most of her life, and who writes a personal, nontourist-directed blog called Letters From the End Consumer. Emi asked Greg and me to meet her at the Nytorget Urban Deli, a lively Sodermalm cafe at the back of a grocery whose offerings include miniature pineapples and saffron biscotti.

我继续探索。现在,我已经通过七个陌生人的双眼仔细探究了这座城市,正因为这一点,我在行程的第一天或第二天,就发掘了那些通常在行程第四或第五天才能看到的“非观光客场所”(不过我很庆幸自己带了本旅游指南,因为我需要里面的地图;此外,在我们碰到一间教堂时,能知道它建于什么年代,这对我们很有用)。不过,现在是时候将游戏继续推进下去了:我想要跟一位博主本人碰个面。我的一位美国朋友听说了我的需求,向我介绍了埃米·古纳(Emi Guner),她40岁,是三个孩子的妈妈,这一辈子大部分时间都住在斯德哥尔摩城里或附近地区,她还有一个私人的、非游客指南性质的博客,叫最终用户来信(Letters from the End Consumer)。埃米让我和格雷格在Nytorget Urban Deli跟她碰头,这间热闹的咖啡馆位于莎德玛,设在一间杂货铺后面,店里有卖迷你菠萝和番红花小脆饼。

The wonderfully witty Emi — ”Pickled herring,” she allowed at one point, “is the Gatorade of the North” — was busily pecking away at the keyboard of her silver MacBook Air when we arrived. Never before have I met someone who can so gracefully punctuate her conversation with helpful Web searches. You like sweets? Here is the site of a great new caramel shop, Parlans, where the workers all dress in swing-era garb. You’re going to the medieval district? You’ll definitely want to look at the windows of the lovely boutique Very Important Clothes. You miss your cat back in New York? Let’s watch this clip of Werner Herzog talking about chickens. When I pressed Emi for the name of the amazing cakelike brown bread that restaurants kept serving us, I was startled to see her convey the words “danskt ragbrod” by pencil rather than IM.

埃米是个极为风趣的妙人儿。她对我们说:“腌腓鱼,就是北边的加得乐”。当我们来到店里时,她的指尖正在银色的MacBook Air键盘上翻飞。在遇到她以前,我还从没见过一个人可以一边优雅地聊着天,一边不断插入有用的网络信息。你喜欢吃甜食?这个是一家新糖果铺的网站,叫Parlans,很不错,那里的员工都穿着摇摆时代的装束。你想去逛逛中世纪的那片区域?你绝对得去看一眼Very Important Clothes的橱窗,这个精品店可爱极了。你想念在纽约家里的小猫?那我们一起看看沃纳·赫尔佐格(Werner Herzog)谈论小鸡的这段视频吧。店家不断给我们送上的那种像蛋糕似的黑面包味道好极了,我请埃米告诉我它究竟叫什么名字,看到她用铅笔写下“danskt ragbrod”这几个字,而没有用私信发给我,这真是让我大吃一惊。

I asked Emi if she had a theory as to why Stockholm has so many bloggers, and she said: “It might be partly our inferiority complex. We’re feeling kind of alone, all the way up here in the north. We want to reach out and tell people that we’re alive. We want to show people that we’re on top of everything.”

我问埃米,她如何看斯德哥尔摩有这么多人写博客,她说:“也许其中一个原因是自卑感。我们感觉有点孤独,就这么孤零零地在北方待着。我们想要与外界联系,告诉别人我们还活着。我们想要展示给人看,自己做什么都在行。”

This naturally led to a discussion of hipster-riddled Sodermalm, whose cafes I had recently described to a friend as “laptoppy.” Emi reported: “The Stockholm hipsters have gotten very nerdy about bread. And coffee is reaching Brooklyn levels.” On the bread front: “Sourdough has gotten huge, especially for stay-at-home dads. The bakery of this deli that we’re in has a ‘sourdough hotel’ where you can leave your starter when you go on vacation.” (Sourdough starter needs to be “fed” to keep the yeast active. The “hotel” is a shelving unit that holds some 30 jars of customers’ dried or live starter; the top shelf is labeled “Penthouse.”) Emi said, “When I first heard about it, I thought it was a hipster joke.”

我们自然而然地就把话题转向了时髦人士云集的莎德玛区,不久前我曾向友人形容说,这里的咖啡馆“里面的人全用着笔记本电脑”。埃米跟我说了一桩事儿:“斯德哥尔摩的时髦人士对面包有股特别执着的劲头。咖啡的水准直逼布鲁克林。”谈到面前的面包:“面包酵头现在的地位好高,对居家老爸们来说尤其如此。我们现在身处的这家馆子的面包房有一个‘酵头酒店’,你外出度假时,可以把发酵的酸面团寄存在这里。”(酸味酵头需要“喂养”才能保持酵母活性。“酒店”是一排排架子,能存放大概30罐客人的干酵母或活性酵母起子;最上面一层的架子被称为“顶层公寓”)埃米说:“我头一回听见这种事时,还以为是他们时髦人编的段子呢。”

Given her excellent taste in all things Stockholm, it seemed only appropriate to ask Emi what her perfect day in Stockholm would be. She said she’d start with breakfast at the Hotel Skeppsholmen; then go to either of the nearby museums of modern art or architecture; then sit outside and eat lunch in the Humlegarden; then go for a swim at the outdoor pool at the Eriksbadet sports center.

面对一个对斯德哥尔摩的一切都有着绝佳见地的人,请她讲述一下如何在这里过上最完美的一天,应该再合适不过了。埃米说,她会先在船岛酒店吃早餐;然后要么去附近的当代艺术博物馆,要么去建筑博物馆;然后她会在室外坐坐,去葎草公园(Humlegarden)吃午饭;之后她会去Eriksbadet运动中心的室外游泳池游泳。

It was only the next day — when I’d peeled off from Greg and perched myself on the Hotel Skeppsholmen’s patio — that I realized that Emi’s perfect day ended in the late afternoon. What of her evening? I struggled with this omission before finally realizing that it seemed just about right. You can plan a perfect day, and can put a perfect day in motion, but in the end, the best days are usually the ones that allow for the random. You put the building blocks in place, but then the wind moves them.

直到第二天——在我摆脱了格雷格,独自坐在船岛酒店的阳台时——我才想起来,埃米最完美的一天在快到傍晚时分就结束了。她晚上怎么办呢?我苦苦思索着她的遗漏,最后终于意识到,留了点白,也许就对了。你可以规划完美的一天,可以着手度过完美的一天,但说到底,最美好的日子,往往都是那些容许意外发生的时光。你将积木搭好,然后一阵风吹来,它们便乱了。

WHERE TO STAY

在哪儿住:


Hotel Skeppsholmen. On Skeppsholmen, the island that houses museums of modern art and architecture, this 81-room hotel is in a naval barracks dating from 1699. Hushed Swedish minimalism is the keynote. Note the bathroom sinks — the water falls on pearl-white stone that looks like a blob of very relaxed pizza dough. Grona gangen 1; (46-8) 407-23-50; hotelskeppsholmen.com. A double room is 1,795 to 2,995 kronor, about $255 to $425 at 7 kronor to the dollar.

船岛酒店。船岛上建有当代艺术和建筑博物馆,这个有81间房间的酒店可以追溯到1699年,当时这里只是个海军营房。缄默的瑞典式极简主义是酒店的基调。看看浴室水槽——水冲刷在珍珠白色的石头上,看起来就像是一团非常松软的披萨饼面团。Grona gangen 1; (46-8) 407-23-50; hotelskeppsholmen.com。双人间价格为1795到2995克朗,按7克朗兑1美元的比价,约合255美元到425美元。

First Hotel Reisen. Formerly a 17th-century coffee house, the Reisen is on the water in Gamla Stan, the Old Town, and each of its rooms has a water view. The rooms are smallish; the breakfast, expansive. Skeppsbron 12; (46-8) 22-32-60; firsthotels.com. Doubles, 1,364 to 2,250 kronor.

第一雷森酒店(First Hotel Reisen)。雷森酒店的原型是个17世纪的咖啡馆,地处斯德哥尔摩老城区,临水而建,每间房都能看到水景。房间很小,早餐很贵。Skeppsbron 12; (46-8) 22-32-60; firsthotels.com。双人间价格为1364到2250克朗。

WHERE TO EAT

在哪儿吃:


Djuret. A nose-to-tail restaurant, Djuret celebrates one kind of meat at a time — when we went, it was veal — serving only that meat in all its varieties. Prepare to see meat hooks on the walls and illustrations of beef cuts on the tablecloths, and be forewarned that even the side dishes may be absent of vegetables. Lilla Nygatan 5; (46-8) 506-400-84; djuret.se. Entrees 250 to 450 kronor. Reservations recommended.

Djuret。这是一家主张“从鼻子到尾巴都不浪费”烹饪方法(nose-to-tail,近年来流行的烹饪方式——译注)的餐馆,一段时间主做一种肉类——我们去的那会儿是小牛肉——在所有菜式里就都只有这一种肉。你要做好准备,你会在墙上看到肉钩子,在桌面上看到牛肉解剖图解,还要给你敲个警钟:连配菜可能都不是蔬菜。Lilla Nygatan 5; (46-8) 506-400-84; djuret.se。主菜250到450克朗。建议提前订位。

Rosendals Tradgard. About a 15 minute walk onto the park-covered island of Djurgarden will take you to this oasis of organic and artisanal soups, sandwiches and baked goods. The adjoining garden center sells plants; an adjoining gift shop sells bread and jams. Rosendalsterrassen 12; (46-8) 545-812-70; rosendalstradgard.se Open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekdays and to 6 p.m. on weekends. Closed mid-November to mid-February.

Rosendals Tradgard。在遍布公园的花园岛(Djurgarden)走上15分钟,你就可以步入这片绿洲,这里提供有机纯手工制作的汤羹、三明治和烘焙食品,旁边的园艺中心销售绿植;礼品店出售面包果酱。Rosendalsterrassen 12; (46-8) 545-812-70; rosendalstradgard.se 。开放时间,工作日上午11点到下午5点,周末上午11点到下午6点。11月中旬到2月中旬歇业。

19 Glas. This tiny and somewhat cramped place in the Old Town has a good and wonderfully priced (129 kronor) two-course lunch featuring lots of locally produced ingredients. There’s also a five-course set menu dinner for 499 kronor. Stora Nygatan 19; (46-8) 723-19-19; 19glas.com.

19 Glas。这间位于老城区的餐馆地方不大,有时显得有点逼仄,两道菜的午餐很好吃,价格合理(129克朗),使用了大量本地产的食材。五道菜的晚间套餐定价为499克朗。Stora Nygatan 19; (46-8) 723-19-19; 19glas.com。

WHERE TO DRINK

去哪儿喝酒:


Nobis Hotel. If you’re in the market for an elegant hotel lobby drink, skip this design hotel’s much-lauded and fashionista-clogged Gold Bar and head for the inner courtyard with comfy chairs and soaring atrium. According to the front desk, it takes seven men a whole day to change the overhead light fixture’s light bulbs. Normalmstorg 2-4; (46-8) 614-10-00; nobishotel.se.

诺比斯酒店(Nobis Hotel)。如果你想找个优雅的酒店大堂喝一杯,那就别去这家设计酒店广受赞誉、潮人云集的Gold Bar,直接往里面的天井走,那里座椅舒适,正对着挑高的中庭。据前台说,酒店请七个工人用了整整一天的时间,才把顶灯的电灯泡全都更换了一遍。Normalmstorg 2-4; (46-8) 614-10-00; nobishotel.se。

Le Bar Rouge. A red-velvet-bedecked bit of elegant fantaisie, this bar on a quiet street in the Old Town attracts its share of colorful characters. A popular Moulin Rouge-themed restaurant is also on the premises; reservations recommended. Brunnsgrand 2-4; (46-8) 505-244-60; lerouge.se.

Le Bar Rouge。这家酒吧位于老城一条安静的街上,格调优雅时尚,以红色和紫罗兰色作为主色调,吸引了一众有趣的客人。同一幢楼还有一家以红磨坊为主题的餐馆,也很受欢迎;建议提前订位。Brunnsgrand 2-4; (46-8) 505-244-60; lerouge.se。

WHERE TO SHOP

去哪儿购物:


Aplace Below. Though there are several branches of Aplace — a boutique specializing in international designers, many of them Swedish — throughout the city, this very small basement branch in Vasastan sells last season’s clothes for men and women at reduced prices. Eriksgatan 79; (46-8) 32-51-10; aplace.com.

Aplace Below。Aplace是一家专门销售国际时装设计师,包括不少瑞典本土设计师作品的精品店,在城里有几家分店,这家规模很小的分店位于Vasastan,设在地下室,以折扣价销售上一季的男装和女装。Eriksgatan 79; (46-8) 32-51-10; aplace.com。

Parlans. This new swing-era-themed Sodermalm confectionery sells different flavored caramels wrapped in wax paper (about 7 kronor each). You can sit in the store and order tea as well. Nytorgsgatan 38; (46-8) 660-70-10; parlanskonfektyr.se.

Parlans。这家位于莎德玛的糖果店新近开张,以摇摆时代为主题,销售各种不同口味的焦糖(每个7克朗左右),用蜡纸包装。你可以坐在店里叫杯茶喝。Nytorgsgatan 38; (46-8) 660-70-10;parlanskonfektyr.se。
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