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36小时玩转纳帕溪谷

36 Hours in Napa Valley
36小时玩转纳帕溪谷

In the three decades since the Napa Valley began its steep ascent to international wine stardom, California’s best known appellation seems at times to have become a cliché, with its increasingly opulent wineries, as-seen-on-TV chefs and spectacular restaurants. At worst, it’s a boozy adult Disneyland, complete with rides (the Wine Train) and lines (Highway 29 traffic). At best, the valley is undulating hills, crisscrossed by vines and awash in wildflowers — a stunningly beautiful landscape studded with small towns. Excellent wine is everywhere, including downtown Napa, where 20 wine bars and tasting rooms have opened in the last decade. The proliferation of new places to taste wine has reversed what was once the norm in Napa: the inevitable hustle to get into a handful of respected wineries. Now there is more time to indulge in other sensory pleasures.

过去三十年,美国的纳帕溪谷从籍籍无名疾速蹿升,一跃变为世界葡萄酒产业的巨星。这个全加州最好的葡萄产地仿佛已经成为奢华酒庄、出镜名厨和炫目餐厅的代名词。往坏了说,纳帕溪谷就是一个酒精弥漫的“成人迪斯尼乐园”,有着自己的游乐设施(葡萄酒小火车)和长队(拥堵的29号高速路)。往好了说,纳帕溪谷宛如一幅绝美的风景画:连绵起伏的山峦被交错的葡萄藤和野花所覆盖,一些小城镇点缀其间。美酒随处可见!仅纳帕中心区这10年间就新开了20个酒吧和葡萄酒品鉴室。以前,只要你到纳帕,就一定会被推搡着从一个名庄赶到另一个名庄;现如今,随着新的品酒场所的出现,你会花上更多时间来品尝各种体验!

Friday

周五

4 p.m.

16:00

1. EVERY DAY IS MARKET DAY

1、每天逛市集
 

从左上角顺时针: Crossroad Chicken三明治,在Velo Vino品酒,Bottega Ristorante的点心,Bottega Ristorante酒庄。

For an immersion in Napa’s decadent food culture, start at the 40,000-square-foot Oxbow Public Market (610 and 644 First Street, Napa; 707-226-6529; oxbowpublicmarket.com). Try the Sweetwater oysters on the half shell (from $15 for six) at Hog Island Oyster Bar (707-251-8113; hogislandoysters.com). Then order a scoop of the organic cardamom or lemon cookie ice cream at Three Twins (707-257-8946; threetwinsicecream.com) or pick up one of Kara’s Cupcakes (707-258-2253; karascupcakes.com), in flavors like sweet s’mores and peanut butter milk-chocolate ganache. Then follow First Street over the bridge into downtown, where shops are buzzing.
纳帕的美食之旅要从占地四万平方英尺的奥克斯博市集(Oxbow Public Market地址:610 and 644 First Street, Napa; 电话:707-226-6529;网址:oxbowpublicmarket.com)开始。在猪岛生蚝酒吧(Hog Island Oyster Bar电话:707-251-8113;网址:hogislandoysters.com)尝尝带壳的甜水生蚝(15美金六个起),之后去三姐妹冰激凌店(ThreeTwins 电话:707-257-8946;网址:threetwinsicecream.com)点一个绿色豆蔻或者柠檬口味的冰激凌球,你也可以选择去卡拉的杯子蛋糕店(Kara'sCupcakes 电话:707-258-2253;网址:karascupcakes.com)挑选不同口味的纸杯蛋糕,如巧克力棉花糖口味,花生酱牛奶巧克力加纳奇口味。沿着第一街继续走,过桥就是纳帕的中心区了,那里是个购物的好去处。

6 p.m.

18:00

2. BUON APPETITO

2、祝你好胃口


Drive north to Yountville, a tiny town where you can sit beside a wood-burning fireplace on the terrazzo at Bottega Ristorante (6525 Washington Street, Yountville; 707-945-1050; botteganapavalley.com), which the chef Michael Chiarello opened in 2008. Try the Polenta Under Glass, with caramelized mushrooms and balsamic game sauce ($12), and the Lamb & Egg (lamb sausage, peperonata, crispy soft-boiled egg, red endive and smoked olive-oil-poached mushrooms; $15). Another option is the remodeled Restaurant at Meadowood (900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena; 707-967-1205; therestaurantatmeadowood.com), which may have California’s priciest tasting menu (from $500 with wine). Besides the French Laundry, it’s the only restaurant in the Bay Area with three Michelin stars.

驱车向北到小城扬特维尔(Yountville),找到博洛尼亚餐厅(Bottega Ristorante 地址:6525 Washington Street, Yountville;电话:707-945-1050;网址:botteganapavalley.com),这家铺着水磨石地板的餐厅由美国名厨迈克尔.切洛(Michael Chiarello)在2008年创立。你可以坐在柴火壁炉边,品尝一道搭配着焦糖蘑菇和黑醋野味酱汁的玉米面糊(the Polenta Under Glass ;12美金),另一道推荐的菜品是羔羊肉配鸡蛋(the Lamb & Egg;15美金),原料包括羔羊肉香肠、意式炖甜椒、溏心鸡蛋、红菊苣和烟熏的橄榄油浸蘑菇。你也可以去麦道雾德餐厅(The Restaurant at Meadowood 地址:900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena;电话:707-967-1205;网址:therestaurantatmeadowood.com)用晚餐,那里拥有加州最昂贵的特选菜谱(含酒500美金起)。在湾区,这家重新装修过的餐厅是除了法国洗衣店餐厅(theFrench Laundry)之外唯一一家米其林三星餐厅。

9 p.m.

21:00

3. SEIZE THE NIGHT

3、晚上也精彩


When the tasting rooms close, tourists and young Valley dwellers compete for tables at Carpe Diem Wine Bar (1001 Second Street, Napa; 707-224-0800; carpediemwinebar.com). Housed in the former Alexandria Hotel, the bar serves 63 wines by the glass, from small production wines to the $85-a-half-bottle Krug Grand Cuvée Champagne. Reserve a seat at the Uptown Theater (1350 Third Street, Napa; 707-259-0123; uptowntheatrenapa.com), an Art Deco movie palace with acts like Ani DiFranco and Ladysmith Black Mambazo.

在品酒室歇业之后,游客和当地的年轻人就会竞相来到及时行乐酒吧(Carpe Diem Wine Bar地址:1001 SecondStreet, Napa;电话: 707-224-0800;网址:carpediemwinebar.com)。这个酒吧坐落的建筑,原为亚历山大酒店,酒吧按杯销售63种葡萄酒,从小产量的葡萄酒,到85美金半瓶的库克陈年香槟。有可能的话,在上城剧院(the Uptown Theater 地址:1350 Third Street, Napa; 电话:707-259-0123;uptowntheatrenapa.com)预定一个座位,这是一个装饰艺术(Art Deco)风格的电影宫殿,吉他天才安妮·迪芙兰蔻(Ani DiFranco)和南非格莱美获奖音乐组合雷村黑斧合唱团(Ladysmith Black Mambazo)都曾在此登台。

Saturday

周六

9 a.m.

9:00

4. BREAKFAST PICNIC

4、野餐式早餐


For exceptional oversize English muffins, start your Saturday at Model Bakery (644 First Street, Building B, Napa; 707-259-1128; themodelbakery.com), a 100-year-old Napa Valley institution. Pick up a batard of bacon bread or a Northern California-style sourdough, and head next door to the Fatted Calf charcuterie shop (644 C First Street, Napa; 707-256-3684; fattedcalf.com), where you can buy salumis (from the herbaceous air-dried salami Petit Sec aux Herbes to Spanish-style chorizo), pâtés and confits for picnicking among the vines and mustard blossoms.

如果想吃到超大号的英式松饼,那你的周六就要从模范烘焙屋(Model Bakery地址:644 First Street, Building B, Napa; 电话:707-259-1128; themodelbakery.com)开始,它拥有百年历史。选择一个花式培根面包,或者北加州风格的自然发酵面包,然后移步到隔壁的肥牛犊熟食店(the Fatted Calfcharcuterie shop 地址:644 C First Street, Napa; 电话:707-256-3684;网址:fattedcalf.com),在这里你可以买到各种香肠(从草本风干香肠到西班牙风格的香肠)、馅饼和蜜饯,然后在葡萄藤下和芥末花间野餐。

10 a.m.

10:00

5. ART HOUSE

5、艺术之家


Drive into the Carneros hills to di Rosa (5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa; 707-226-5991; dirosaart.org), the former estate of Rene di Rosa, the founder of Winery Lake vineyards and an eccentric collector who devoted himself to the work of Northern California’s emerging artists. The 200-acre property has peacocks, sculpture-covered hillsides and a lake. The Gatehouse Gallery features rotating exhibitions (a recent show included art cars and sound installations) and is open to drop-ins. But to fully experience di Rosa’s vision, arrange a tour (two hours, $15) of the permanent collection, the sculpture meadow and the di Rosa house, where nearly every surface is covered with art and mementos.

驱车到卡尼洛斯山(the Carneros hills)的罗莎之家(di Rosa 地址:5200 Sonoma Highway,Napa; 电话:707-226-5991; dirosaart.org), 这座建筑的旧主罗莎(Rene diRosa)不仅是酒厂湖葡萄园(Winery Lake vineyards)的创始人,也是一位特立独行的收藏家,他全身心地投入到北加州新兴艺术家的作品中。在这片200英亩的土地上,你可以看到孔雀、被雕塑所覆盖的山坡,还有湖泊。门楼画廊(The Gatehouse Gallery)以巡回展览著称,而且对未预约访客开放,最近的一次展览展出了艺术汽车和音响装置。如果你想全面感受罗莎的想法,可以选择参观套餐(两小时,15美金),这样你就可以观赏那些永久性的收藏,雕塑草甸,以及到处都陈列着艺术品和纪念品的罗莎之家主建筑。

Noon

12:00

6. TRUCK LUNCH

6、食品车午餐


In an area known for its ostentatious dining rooms, try a food truck pit stop instead. Options include the wood oven mozzarella chicken sandwich with spicy bacon at Crossroad Chicken (call for location; 707-280-3868; crossroadchix.com), the Oooh Girl Fried Chicken slider at Mark’s the Spot Truck (500 First Street, Napa; 707-226-7768; marksthespottruck.com) and the classic taco truck La Esperanza (Soscol Avenue at Vallejo, Napa; 707-246-4908).

虽然身处一个崇尚奢华进餐场所的地区,建议找个快餐车换换口味。选择包括:十字路口鸡肉店(Crossroad Chicken,打电话询问地址;电话:707-280-3868;网址:crossroadchix.com),推荐木烤意大利干酪鸡肉三明治配辣味培根肉;马克的定点食品车(Mark's the Spot Truck 地点:500 First Street, Napa; 电话:707-226-7768;marksthespottruck.com) ,推荐尖叫女孩炸鸡迷你汉堡;还有"希望"(La Esperanza地址:Soscol Avenue at Vallejo, Napa; 电话:707-246-4908),那是经典的墨西哥卷饼食品车。

2:30 p.m.

14:30

7. COOKING DEMO

7、烹饪展示


The Culinary Institute of America has turned out some of the country’s best-known chefs — from Grant Achatz to Anthony Bourdain to Roy Choi. For those without $97,000 to devote to a culinary education, the C.I.A. campus in the 1888 Greystone Cellars building in St. Helena (2555 Main Street; 707-967-2320) offers weekend two-hour classes on the New Spanish Table and regional Italian cooking ($95; www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts). There are also one-hour demonstrations (at 1:30 p.m.; $20) and 30-minute tours ($10), which visit the Corkscrew Museum and herb garden.

美国烹饪学院培养了一些享誉美国的名厨,从格兰特.阿卡兹(Grant Achatz)到安东尼.波登(Anthony Bourdain),再到罗伊.崔(Roy Choi)。对于那些花不起97000美金学烹饪的人,位于圣.海伦娜1888灰岩酒窖楼的美国烹饪学院(地址;2555 Main Street; 电话:707-967-2320)在周末提供两小时的烹饪课程,内容包括新式西班牙烹饪和意大利地方烹饪(95美金;网址:www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts)。也有一个小时的演示课程(下午13:30开始;20美金)。你还可以参加一个30分钟的游览(10美金),参观一下开瓶器博物馆(the Corkscrew Museum)和香草园。

3:45 p.m.

15:45

8. TASTE TO TRAIL

8、从品鉴到徒步


While in St. Helena, stop at the St. Helena Olive Oil Company (1351 Main Street, St. Helena; 800-939-9880; sholiveoil.com) to sample another prized local liquid. Housed in the former Bank of Italy, the shop sells extra-virgin oils from seven Napa estates, six more from greater California and a collection of flavored oils (jalapeño, orange) and wine vinegars. The bank’s vault has been converted to a private tasting room, offering extra-virgin tastings and oil-food pairings ($25 to $50 a person). Then, hike the River to Ridge Trail (ridgetrail.org), which connects the Kennedy Memorial Park on the Napa River with the Skyline Wilderness Park, two and a half miles inland.

既然已经身处圣.海伦娜,那就去圣.海伦娜橄榄油公司(the St. Helena Olive Oil Company 地址:1351 Main Street, St. Helena; 电话;800-939-9880;网址:sholiveoil.com/store),在那里品尝当地另外一种深受推崇的液体。这家店坐落在原意大利银行的建筑里,除了出售来自七个纳帕庄园以及六个加州其他地区庄园特级初榨橄榄油之外,也经营其他口味的油类(比如墨西哥辣椒,橘子)和葡萄酒醋。银行的地下室现在已被改成一个私人品鉴室,提供特级初榨橄榄油的品尝,以及橄榄油和食物搭配的指导(每人25到50美金)。随后,参加河畔到山岭古道线的徒步游览(River-to-Ridge Trail网址:ridgetrail.org),这条线路连接着纳帕河边肯尼迪纪念公园(the Kennedy Memorial Park)和天际荒野公园(the Skyline Wilderness Park),单程2.5英里。

7 p.m.

19:00

9. RAW BAR

9、生食餐吧


The first West Coast restaurant in the Masaharu Morimoto (a k a the Iron Chef) empire, Morimoto Napa (610 Main Street, Napa; 707-252-1600; morimotonapa.com) opened on Napa’s riverfront in 2010. It brought high design (midcentury modern furniture, exposed concrete) and urban energy (a bustling bar, blasting techno) to the city’s tame downtown. The East-meets-West menu includes foie gras chawan mushi ($19), sea urchin carbonara ($20) and beautifully sculptured sushi and sashimi. The omakase tasting menu (from $120 per person) is a splurge, while the chirashi bowl (sushi rice topped with fish and vegetables; $32) gives a glimpse of Morimoto’s craft without the painful price tag.

2010年,日本料理铁人森本正治(Masaharu Morimoto)的第一家西海岸餐厅落户纳帕河滨,名为纳帕的森本正治(Morimoto Napa 地址:610 Main Street, Napa; 电话:707-252-1600;网址:morimotonapa.com)。这家餐厅将高品位的设计(20世纪中的现代家具,露石混凝土)和都市活力(一个喧闹的酒吧,响着电子舞曲音乐)带到这个沉闷的市中心。中西合璧的菜谱包括:鹅肝茶碗蒸(19美金),海胆意大利面(20美金)以及美如雕塑的寿司和刺身。餐厅提供的特选菜谱(每人120美金起)颇为昂贵,然而这里的什锦盖饭(黏米加蔬菜鱼肉,32美金)还是给了食客一个品尝森本大师手艺而又不用为钱包心痛的机会。

10 p.m.

22:00

10. SALSA SATURDAY

10、萨尔萨舞之夜


After the kitchen closes on Saturday nights, tables and chairs are cleared, and the dining room at Bistro Sabor (1126 First Street, Napa; 707-252-0555; bistrosabor.com), an ever popular Latin American restaurant, turns into a dance floor. While the owner-winemaker Ariel Ceja gives lessons, locals and out-of-towners dance to salsa, bacchata, merengue, cumbia and reggaeton — until after midnight. No cover.

周六的晚上,当厨房停止供餐,桌椅板凳都清理停当之后,风味小酒馆(Bistro Sabor地址:1126 First Street, Napa; 电话:707-252-0555;网址: bistrosabor.com)的用餐大厅就变成了一个舞厅,这是一家非常受欢迎的拉美风格餐厅。餐厅主人兼酿酒师埃里尔·赛哈(Ariel Ceja)会教本地人和游客跳各种拉丁舞,比如莎莎舞、巴萨塔舞、美瑞格舞、空比亚舞、雷鬼舞,直到午夜,而且免费入场!

Sunday

周日

10 a.m.

10:00

11. WINE RIDE

11、自行车上的葡萄酒


Last year, the couple behind Clif Bar opened Velo Vino (709 Main Street, St. Helena; 707-968-0625; velovinonapavalley.com), a hybrid coffeehouse, wine tasting room and bike shop that arranges bicycle rentals and sells energy bars and some very drinkable wine (sold in a 1.5 liter pouch; $17). Though the Napa Valley Vine Trail project (vinetrail.org), a 44-mile paved bike path that’s to stretch from the Vallejo ferry station to Calistoga, has yet to be fully realized, part of the project has already been completed in Yountville, where it runs parallel to Highway 29.

去年,克里夫巴尔公司(Clif Bar)的创始人在纳帕开了一间名为面纱葡萄酒(Velo Vino 地址:709 Main Street, St. Helena;电话: 707-968-0625; 网址:velovinonapavalley.com)的店面,融咖啡屋、品酒室和自行车店于一身。该店有自行车租赁业务,出售能量棒和一些口感不错的葡萄酒(1.5升袋装,17美金)。纳帕溪谷葡萄藤路线(网址:vinetrail.org)是一个计划从瓦列霍(Vallejo)轮渡站绵延至卡利斯托加(Calistoga)的路线,全长44英里都铺设自行车道,尚未完工,但是,扬特维尔(Yountville)路段的路段已经完工,这部分线路和29号高速平行。

12:30 p.m.

12:30

12. A FEAST TO SHARE

12、共享的盛宴


At the north end of the valley, Solbar (755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga; 707-226-0850; solagecalistoga.com/dining), a barnlike restaurant at the five-year-old Solage Calistoga resort, serves colorful, flower-topped California salads. But the real knockout here is the Lucky Pig ($36), a slow-roasted shoulder of Hampshire pork, served with black sesame crepes, pickled pineapple, Mongolian peanuts and lettuce cups (meant to be shared). Along with the Napa-requisite multipage wine list, Solbar offers exquisite cocktails like the sage canyon flip (Charbay white whiskey, pear purée, lemon, house orgeat syrup, egg white sage; $13). Vegetables and herbs are grown in a garden out back.

在纳帕溪谷的北端,有家状如谷仓的餐厅,名叫索尔吧(Solbar地址;755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga;电话:707-226-0850;网址:solagecalistoga.com/dining),坐落在拥有5年历史的卡利斯托加度假酒店中,供应由鲜花装饰的加州沙拉。但真正令人倾倒的菜品是幸运猪(36美金),其实就是一支慢烤的汉普夏猪前腿,搭配着黑芝麻薄饼、腌制凤梨、蒙古花生和生菜杯(多人用)。除了提供纳帕必备的多页酒单外,餐吧还供应精致的鸡尾酒,比如鼠尾草菲利普(Charbay白威士忌,梨泥,柠檬,自制杏仁糖浆,鸡蛋白鼠尾草;13美金)。蔬菜和香草都来自餐厅外后面的花园。

IF YOU GO

还有两个选择:


Opened in 2009, Bardessono (6526 Yount Street, Yountville; 707-204-6000; bardessono.com; from $800) is the first Platinum LEED certified hotel in California. A free Friday afternoon wine tasting and Saturday morning yoga session are included ($8 for nonguests).

2009年对外开放的Bardessono (地址:6526 Yount Street, Yountville;电话:707-204-6000; 网址:bardessono.com;800美金起),是加州第一个获得绿色建筑铂金认证的酒店。入住就可以免费享受周五下午的葡萄酒品鉴和周六上午的瑜伽单元(非住客8美金)。

For the unrepentant urbanite, another newcomer, AVIA Napa (1450 First Street, Napa; 707-224-3900; avianapa.hyatt.com; from $289), has 141 rooms in downtown Napa and a fire pit on the terrace.

对于那些顽固不化的都市族,另一个新选择是AVIA Napa (地址:1450 First Street, Napa;电话:707-224-3900; 网址:avianapa.hyatt.com;289美金起),这家位于纳帕中心区的酒店有141个房间,它的露台上有一个火坑。
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