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服装设计师灵感之旅

‘Mad Men’ to Turbans
服装设计师灵感之旅

“I’m not a big shopper,” confessed Janie Bryant, costume designer for feature films and for “Mad Men,” the AMC television series whose season finale was shown last Sunday. She finds much more inspiration in traveling to far-flung destinations and, say, riding a camel, than in riffling through clothing store racks.

“我这人不喜欢买东西,” 詹妮·布赖恩特(Janie Bryant)坦言。她是电视剧集《广告狂人》和一些电影的服装设计师,这部由AMC电视台出品的剧集6月10日放送了本季的最后一集。布赖恩特说,比起在时装店的衣架上翻翻拣拣,去偏远地区旅行,去从事像骑骆驼这样的活动,更容易带给她灵感。

“With each experience, my eyes are open to more,” she said. “I love to experience the culture wherever I am, live how they live.”

“每一次的经历都使我的眼界更开阔”,她说。“无论身处何方,我都愿意去感受那里的文化,像当地人一样生活。”
服装设计师詹妮·布赖恩特在摩洛哥。
Below she talks about the countries and cultures that have inspired her work.

接下来,她谈起那些曾经给她的工作带来灵感的国家和文化。 

Q. How does travel influence your designs?

问:旅行是如何影响到你的设计的?

A. I find myself taking photos of architecture, which I keep in a file as a reference for designing fabric prints. When I was on the Greek island of Santorini, I photographed these scrolled, intricate iron gates at the entranceways of hotels, houses, even stairs. While on a cruise to the Panama Canal, we stopped in Cartagena, Colombia, which is one of my favorite cities. There, I kept taking shots of door knockers. The Spanish colonial buildings are painted these beautiful pinks, yellows, blues. Each one has a different style of door knocker, in the shape of fish and animals, cast in copper or a kind of gunmetal.

答:我会拍一些建筑物的照片,然后把它们存在一个文件夹里,在设计服装图样时作为参考。在希腊的圣托里尼岛时,我拍了很多铁门的照片,它们位于酒店、房屋,甚至是楼梯入口处,装饰着卷轴纹样,样式非常复杂。一次坐船前往巴拿马运河,我们在哥伦比亚的卡塔赫纳停下了脚步,这可是我最喜欢的城市之一。在那里,我一直在拍门环。这里的西班牙殖民建筑被刷上了漂亮的粉色、黄色和蓝色。每座建筑都安了一个风格迥异的门环,样式是鱼或者其他动物的形状,由铜或者某种青铜铸就而成。

Q. Did you pick up any items to keep during that trip?

问:在那次旅行中,你是否有所斩获?

A. In Huatulco, Mexico, I picked up this beautiful fabric they use for tablecloths and blankets. It’s like a fine wool challis, with huge squares of red, orange, indigo, green. I wanted something traditional from Colombia, so I bought an alpaca hat and fur pillows. I still regret not buying a raw emerald — Colombia is known for them. They’re not cut, but textured like amethysts. My mother bought a pendant and sometimes I think, “I wanted that!”

答:在墨西哥的瓦图尔科,我买了一块他们用作桌布或毯子的漂亮织物。这块织物就像一块上好的印花轻质羊毛料,上面有红色、橙色、靛蓝色和绿色的大方块图案。我想要一些哥伦比亚传统的东西,所以买了一顶羊驼毛的帽子和几个皮草枕头。我到现在还在懊恼没有买一块祖母绿原石——哥伦比亚可是以这个著称的。这些祖母绿没有经过切割,纹理类似紫水晶。我妈妈买过一个这种材质的项链吊坠,有时候我在想,“我也想要那个!”

Q. When you’re shooting on location, how do you adapt to the new environment?

问:出外景的时候,你是如何适应新环境的呢?

A. I spent two months shooting “The Hills Have Eyes II” in Ouarzazate, Morocco. While on set, I learned how to wrap a turban. I bought this seven-foot-long piece of cotton, dyed in this gorgeous sky blue ombré. The wind can get so intense, you have to wrap the turban around your face and put your sunglasses on to protect yourself. We also lined our eyes with kohl, using a piece of carved camel bone, to keep the sand out. It’s so beautiful looking, but there’s a practical reason, too.

答:拍摄电影《隔山有眼2》(The Hills Have Eyes II)时,我在摩洛哥瓦尔扎扎特城逗留了两个月的时间。这次出外景,我学会了包穆斯林头巾。我买了块七英尺长的棉布,上面染着华美的天蓝色深浅条纹。有时风刮得非常猛烈,你得用穆斯林头巾包住脸,戴上太阳镜来保护自己。我们还会用眼影粉勾出眼线,用一块雕刻了花纹的骆驼骨来挡住沙尘。看起来非常美,不过也有实用性方面的考虑。

I was there so long I got the chance to see other parts of the country, too. One weekend, a group of us drove to Skoura, an oasis 45 minutes outside the city. So you’re driving through the desert, and there’s nothing green forever, then suddenly there are palm trees, the sound of water. One night, we were heading to dinner, and there was a man renting rides with his camels. I said: “Pull over. We have to ride the camels.” So we took a spin, and that’s what started my obsession with riding camels, which is nothing like riding a horse. It’s like you’re on top of a mountain. When the camel walks, you feel the cushion of his feet with each step. It’s so soft.

我在那里呆的时间很长,所以有机会到这个国家的其他地方去看看。一个周末,我们一群人开了45分钟车出城,去了一个名为斯库拉(Skoura)的绿洲。你一路穿越沙漠,看不到一抹绿色,突然眼前就出现了棕榈树,耳边听到了流水声。有一天晚上,我们去吃晚饭,在路上遇见一个提供租乘骆驼服务的人。我说:“拉过来。我们一定要骑骑骆驼。”小溜了一圈儿后,我就迷上了骑骆驼。骑骆驼和骑马决然不同,你就像置身于山顶。当骆驼走起路来的时候,每走一步你都能感受到它脚底肉垫的弹性。真是柔软呀! 

Q. I’m always struck by how the characters in “Mad Men” dress differently when they’re on vacation. Are you a different character when you travel?

问:《广告狂人》中的那些角色在度假的时候,穿衣打扮和平常很不一样,每每看到时我都会很惊艳。你在旅行的时候也会变个样子吗?

A. In January, my husband and I went to Vietnam for our honeymoon. We stayed at this beautiful resort, An Lam, on Ninh Van Bay, outside of Nha Trang. There were 35 private villas, each with its own pool. Nightly, we took sunset cruises and toured the bay during the day. So it was all about the bikinis, little dresses, high-heeled sandals, cover-ups in chiffon, lace, crochet.

答:一月份,我和我的丈夫去越南度蜜月。我们呆在安澜(An Lam) 度假村,它位于芽庄外的宁万湾上。酒店拥有35座私人别墅,每一座都有自己的游泳池。每天晚上,我们都趁着日落航行;在白天,我们就在宁万湾观光。所以,能用得上的衣服就是比基尼、小洋装、高跟凉鞋,雪纺、蕾丝或者针织材质的罩衫。
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