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‘Mad Men’ to Turbans

“I’m not a big shopper,” confessed Janie Bryant, costume designer for feature films and for “Mad Men,” the AMC television series whose season finale was shown last Sunday. She finds much more inspiration in traveling to far-flung destinations and, say, riding a camel, than in riffling through clothing store racks.

“我这人不喜欢买东西,” 詹妮·布赖恩特(Janie Bryant)坦言。她是电视剧集《广告狂人》和一些电影的服装设计师,这部由AMC电视台出品的剧集6月10日放送了本季的最后一集。布赖恩特说,比起在时装店的衣架上翻翻拣拣,去偏远地区旅行,去从事像骑骆驼这样的活动,更容易带给她灵感。

“With each experience, my eyes are open to more,” she said. “I love to experience the culture wherever I am, live how they live.”

Below she talks about the countries and cultures that have inspired her work.


Q. How does travel influence your designs?


A. I find myself taking photos of architecture, which I keep in a file as a reference for designing fabric prints. When I was on the Greek island of Santorini, I photographed these scrolled, intricate iron gates at the entranceways of hotels, houses, even stairs. While on a cruise to the Panama Canal, we stopped in Cartagena, Colombia, which is one of my favorite cities. There, I kept taking shots of door knockers. The Spanish colonial buildings are painted these beautiful pinks, yellows, blues. Each one has a different style of door knocker, in the shape of fish and animals, cast in copper or a kind of gunmetal.


Q. Did you pick up any items to keep during that trip?


A. In Huatulco, Mexico, I picked up this beautiful fabric they use for tablecloths and blankets. It’s like a fine wool challis, with huge squares of red, orange, indigo, green. I wanted something traditional from Colombia, so I bought an alpaca hat and fur pillows. I still regret not buying a raw emerald — Colombia is known for them. They’re not cut, but textured like amethysts. My mother bought a pendant and sometimes I think, “I wanted that!”


Q. When you’re shooting on location, how do you adapt to the new environment?


A. I spent two months shooting “The Hills Have Eyes II” in Ouarzazate, Morocco. While on set, I learned how to wrap a turban. I bought this seven-foot-long piece of cotton, dyed in this gorgeous sky blue ombré. The wind can get so intense, you have to wrap the turban around your face and put your sunglasses on to protect yourself. We also lined our eyes with kohl, using a piece of carved camel bone, to keep the sand out. It’s so beautiful looking, but there’s a practical reason, too.

答:拍摄电影《隔山有眼2》(The Hills Have Eyes II)时,我在摩洛哥瓦尔扎扎特城逗留了两个月的时间。这次出外景,我学会了包穆斯林头巾。我买了块七英尺长的棉布,上面染着华美的天蓝色深浅条纹。有时风刮得非常猛烈,你得用穆斯林头巾包住脸,戴上太阳镜来保护自己。我们还会用眼影粉勾出眼线,用一块雕刻了花纹的骆驼骨来挡住沙尘。看起来非常美,不过也有实用性方面的考虑。

I was there so long I got the chance to see other parts of the country, too. One weekend, a group of us drove to Skoura, an oasis 45 minutes outside the city. So you’re driving through the desert, and there’s nothing green forever, then suddenly there are palm trees, the sound of water. One night, we were heading to dinner, and there was a man renting rides with his camels. I said: “Pull over. We have to ride the camels.” So we took a spin, and that’s what started my obsession with riding camels, which is nothing like riding a horse. It’s like you’re on top of a mountain. When the camel walks, you feel the cushion of his feet with each step. It’s so soft.


Q. I’m always struck by how the characters in “Mad Men” dress differently when they’re on vacation. Are you a different character when you travel?


A. In January, my husband and I went to Vietnam for our honeymoon. We stayed at this beautiful resort, An Lam, on Ninh Van Bay, outside of Nha Trang. There were 35 private villas, each with its own pool. Nightly, we took sunset cruises and toured the bay during the day. So it was all about the bikinis, little dresses, high-heeled sandals, cover-ups in chiffon, lace, crochet.

答:一月份,我和我的丈夫去越南度蜜月。我们呆在安澜(An Lam) 度假村,它位于芽庄外的宁万湾上。酒店拥有35座私人别墅,每一座都有自己的游泳池。每天晚上,我们都趁着日落航行;在白天,我们就在宁万湾观光。所以,能用得上的衣服就是比基尼、小洋装、高跟凉鞋,雪纺、蕾丝或者针织材质的罩衫。
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