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一个正在全面复苏的洛杉矶

How Los Angeles Has Changed (in a Good Way)
一个正在全面复苏的洛杉矶

Sun, sand, sightings of celebrities in their natural habitats: Tourists have long descended on Los Angeles for some combination of the above. If you’re keen on that cocktail, rest assured, it remains on offer — wrest your way into a coastal hot spot like Nobu Malibu or Giorgio Baldi and you can indulge with abandon.

阳光、沙滩,随处可见怡然自得的名人——长久以来,洛杉矶就以这些特征吸引着游客的到来。如果你喜欢这些,请放心,它们都没有消失,只要挤得进诸如Nobu Malibu或Giorgio Baldi这样的海滨网红餐厅,你大可以尽情观赏这些风景。

But Los Angeles has more to offer than the obvious. New, genre-bending restaurants and bars have cemented the city’s status as a culinary capital of the world. Stages, outdoors and in, are booked with acts, big and rising. Museums, including the long-delayed, $484 million homage to Hollywood, the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, are courting crowds. Travelers are coming in droves.

但洛杉矶可以提供的,远不止这些路人皆知之处。独辟蹊径的新兴餐厅与酒吧巩固了这座城市作为世界美食之都的地位。无论户外还是室内舞台,各路大制作轮番上演。博物馆门庭若市,包括姗姗来迟的奥斯卡电影博物馆,这是造价4.84亿美元(约32亿元人民币)向好莱坞的致敬之作。游人堪称络绎不绝。
 

位于洛杉矶市中心的合适酒店,其屋顶酒吧对本地人和外乡人同样具有吸引力。

“Los Angeles’ comeback story is well underway,” said Adam Burke, the president and CEO of the city’s tourism board, adding that Los Angeles is projected to see more than 46 million visitors this year, close to 2019’s record high of 50.7 million tourists. “We’re optimistic that we’ll see full recovery in Los Angeles by the end of 2023,” Burke said.

“洛杉矶的逆袭正在顺利进行,”该市旅游局总裁兼首席执行官亚当·伯克表示。他还说,洛杉矶今年预计将接待超过4600万游客,接近2019年创纪录的5070万人次。“我们乐观地认为,到2023年底,洛杉矶将全面复苏,”伯克说。

Restaurants and bars

餐厅和酒吧


If Los Angeles wasn’t the nation’s preeminent city for sushi before, it is now. Sushi Tama, Morihiro and Kinkan are some of the high-end slingers of omakase, chef-curated tasting menus, that opened during the pandemic and won fans over with takeout boxes of fish that shimmer like jewels. Now, you can book seats at their respective sushi bars, but plan in advance: Seats at Kinkan’s counter, where dine-in meals range from $125 to $250 per person, can be particularly hard to come by.

就算以前不是,如今的洛杉矶也是全美首屈一指的寿司之都。Sushi Tama、Morihiro和Kinkan都是厨师发办的高端餐厅,在疫情期间开业,并凭借像珠宝一样华丽的外卖鱼盒赢得了粉丝青睐。现在,你都可以预定这些店内的寿司台位,但得提前计划:Kinkan的寿司台位可能特别紧俏,这里店内用餐的价格从人均125美元到250美元(836~1670元人民币)不等。

The Black Lives Matter movement brought renewed attention to Los Angeles’ Black-owned businesses, especially restaurants. Critics are raving over Berbere, an Ethiopian-inspired vegan restaurant that opened in Santa Monica in 2021 (most dishes are under $20), and you’d be hard pressed to find a more beautiful latte than the one served at Bloom & Plume, a coffee shop and cafe that celebrity florist Maurice Harris opened next to his east side flower shop just before the pandemic (espresso drinks start at $3.50). Several websites offer guides to the best Black-owned restaurants in the city; Thrillist’s is particularly robust.

“黑人的命也是命”运动让洛杉矶黑人的生意——特别是餐厅——收获了新人气。评论家都对2021年在圣莫妮卡开张的埃塞俄比亚风格的素食餐厅Berbere热衷不已(大多数菜品价格在20美元以下,也就是130元人民币),你也很难找到比Bloom & Plume做得更漂亮的拿铁,疫情暴发前,明星花艺师莫里斯·哈里斯在他的东区花店旁开了这家咖啡馆(浓缩咖啡起价为3.5美元,约23元人民币)。有几家网站列出了本市黑人经营的最佳餐馆;Thrillist是其中的佼佼者。

Low-carb cliches be damned, pizza is having a moment. Pie after pie flies out of the open kitchen of Mother Wolf, Hollywood’s buzziest new restaurant — fans include Rihanna and Michelle Obama — which occupies a gilded art deco landmark, the Citizen-News building. (Overheard at the bar: “If you squint, it’s almost like you’re in New York.”) Downtown, De La Nonna serves grandma-style pies ($16 and up) and crisp Negronis. In Echo Park, on the city’s east side, Grá makes an argument for pizza as health food, with its organic sourdough base, “seasonal ferments” (kimchi, pickled cucumber salads) and natural wine, which, incidentally, has inspired so many new bars, you could be forgiven for thinking someone had stumbled on an underground supply.

把低碳健康的陈词滥调抛到一边,披萨才是正当红的美食。Mother Wolf的开放厨房端出一盘又一盘馅饼,这家好莱坞最热门的新餐馆位于金光闪闪的装饰艺术地标建筑市民新闻大厦内,蕾哈娜和米歇尔·奥巴马都是这家店的粉丝。(在酒吧里无意听到的话:“如果眯起眼睛,这就像在纽约一样。”)市中心的De La Nonna餐厅供应祖母手艺馅饼(起价16美元,或107元人民币)和爽口的尼格罗尼鸡尾酒。在城市东部的回音公园,Grá把披萨做成了健康食品,以有机酵母为饼底,搭配“时令腌菜”(韩式泡菜、腌黄瓜沙拉)和天然葡萄酒,顺带一提,这道菜给无数新酒吧带去了灵感,你可能会误以为有人无意中发现了某个地下供应渠道。

Museums and live events

博物馆和现场活动


Los Angeles’ major museums are open again: the Broad is showcasing a new collection of works from Takashi Murakami as well as a series of art around the theme of the American flag. Many of the city’s museums, including the Broad, the Getty, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, which opened in September and features six floors of movie-industry memorabilia, require advance reservations and have their own masking and vaccination protocols. It’s best to check their websites before visiting.

洛杉矶各大博物馆都已重新开放:布洛德博物馆将展出村上隆的最新系列作品,还有一系列以美国国旗为主题的艺术展品。包括布洛德博物馆、盖蒂中心、洛杉矶县立美术馆和奥斯卡电影博物馆(将于9月开放,馆内六层楼都将展出电影行业的各种纪念品)在内,洛杉矶的许多博物馆都需要提前预约,并有各自的口罩和疫苗规定。最好在造访之前先查查官网上的信息。

There is no shortage of events uniting aficionados of various stripes. The Hollywood Bowl and the Greek Theatre, Los Angeles’ prime outdoor performance venues, have returned with a full slate of concerts. Baseball fans will convene at Dodger Stadium for the Major League Baseball All-Star Game on July 19; just south of Los Angeles, jazz enthusiasts will come together for the Newport Beach Jazz Festival in June. Rockers rejoice: Pasadena’s This Ain’t No Picnic brings together dozens of rock bands in August, including The Strokes and LCD Soundsystem.

洛杉矶从来都少不了汇聚了各种各样发烧友的活动。作为该市的主要露天表演场所,好莱坞露天剧场和希腊剧场的音乐会日程已经再次排满。7月19日,棒球球迷将涌入道奇体育场观战职棒大联盟的全明星赛;而在洛杉矶南边,爵士爱好者将齐聚一堂,参加6月的纽波特海滩爵士音乐节;摇滚乐手也欢呼雀跃:8月,帕萨迪纳的“这可不容易”音乐节将迎来数十支摇滚乐队的演出,包括The Strokes和LCD Soundsystem。

Sports fans, take note: With the addition of Angel City Football Club in the National Women’s Soccer League, Los Angeles now has 11 professional sports teams — the most of any city in the country. NFL fans have flocked to Inglewood’s newly opened SoFi Stadium, where would-be quarterbacks can take a guided tour and test their skills on the field where the Los Angeles Rams won the Super Bowl in February.

体育迷们请注意:随着天使城足球俱乐部加入国家女子足球联赛,洛杉矶现在已经有11支职业球队了,是全美之最。全国橄榄球联盟球迷纷纷涌入英格尔伍德新开放的SoFi体育场,今年2月,洛杉矶公羊队才在这里拿下超级碗冠军,未来的四分卫们大可在导游的带领下参观一番,并亲自上场试试水平。

In the same complex as SoFi Stadium, the new YouTube Theater features a robust lineup of Latinx artists this summer and fall, including Rosalia, Gloria Trevi and Sebastian Yatra.

新落成的YouTube剧院与SoFi体育场同在一处综合体,将在今年夏秋迎来强大的拉丁裔艺术家阵容,包括罗莎莉亚、格洛丽亚·特雷维和塞巴斯蒂安·亚特拉。

For decades, Los Angeles’ Pride Festival & Parade has been one of the largest LGBTQ Pride events in the world, and it’ll be back in full force the weekend of June 11. Old attractions have been updated: the Warner Bros. Studio Tour has reopened with a state-of-the-art welcome center, and Universal Studios Hollywood has added a “Secret Life of Pets” ride.

几十年来,洛杉矶的骄傲节游行都是世界上规模最大的LGBTQ骄傲活动之一,它将在今年6月11日的周末全面回归。老景点有了新东西:配备了最先进的接待中心的华纳兄弟工作室导览重新开放,好莱坞环球影城增加了《爱宠大机密》之旅。

High-design hotels

高端设计酒店


Los Angeles added 2,100 new hotel rooms in 2021, and there’s a home away from home for every type of traveler. Downtown, the Kelly Wearstler-designed Proper Hotel (1100 South Broadway, rooms from $349) has become a destination for locals and out-of-towners alike with its art-deco-meets-modern-day-globe-trotter aesthetic. Pendry West Hollywood (8430 Sunset Blvd., rooms from $525) brings a dose of maximalism to the Sunset Strip, with sumptuous rooms designed by Martin Brudnizki, a rooftop restaurant helmed by Wolfgang Puck, and a happening pool scene.

2021年,洛杉矶新增了2100间酒店客房,保证每一种类型的旅行者都能感受到宾至如归。在市中心,凯莉·韦斯特勒设计的合适酒店(南百老汇1100号,客房起价349美元,约2340元人民币)对本地人和外乡人来说都是热门去处,在这里,装饰艺术与现代环球旅行的美学碰撞相得益彰。西好莱坞璞富腾酒店(日落大道8430号,客房起价525美元,约3500元人民币)为日落大道带来了一味极繁主义风,这里有马丁·布鲁德尼茨基设计的豪华客房,沃尔夫冈·帕克掌勺的屋顶餐厅,以及热闹的泳池风景。

The Maybourne Beverly Hills (225 North Canon Dr., rooms from $1,095) is bringing a bit of Britain far west of the pond; its high tearoom, helmed by its sister hotel, Claridges, will debut later this year. For YOLO adherents with money to burn, the Beverly Hills Hotel (9641 Sunset Blvd., rooms from $735), which turns 110 this year, is offering its signature McCarthy Salad for $1,912 — besides lettuce, it comes with gold flakes, lobster, caviar, a bottle of Dom Pérignon and an inflated sense of superiority that comes with ordering a salad that costs more than the average monthly home mortgage.

比弗利山庄梅伯恩酒店(佳能北道225号,客房起价1095美元,约7320元人民币)为大西洋以西的遥远之地带来了一丝英国气息;店内的高端茶室由其姊妹酒店克拉里奇酒店经营,将于今年晚些时候开业。至于那些不缺钱的及时行乐者,今年就将迎来110周年庆的比佛利山酒店(日落大道9641号,客房起价735美元,约4915元人民币)推出了售价1912美元(约12790元人民币)的招牌麦卡锡沙拉,除了生菜之外,这道菜还配有金箔、龙虾、鱼子酱、一瓶唐培里侬香槟王,以及膨胀起来的优越感,毕竟这份沙拉的价格可比月均房贷还高。
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