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玩转纽约皇后区,36小时远远不够

36 Hours? In Queens, Enough Frugal Options for a Week
玩转纽约皇后区,36小时远远不够

This week, the New York Times Travel section is publishing its first ever 36 Hours itinerary for Queens, N.Y. As a Queens resident, I heartily endorse the weekend romp through its unique museums, wildly eclectic restaurants, energetic night life and extraordinarily affordable foot massages. As the article's author, I must add that my feet have never felt more relaxed.

这个星期,《纽约时报》旅游版要刊发史上第一篇36小时玩转纽约市皇后区(Queens, N.Y.)的文章。作为皇后区居民,我衷心建议大家用一个周末来探访它独特的博物馆、高度多元的饭店、活力四射的夜生活和价格超级平实的足部按摩。作为本文作者必须说明,我的双脚从未像现在一样舒适放松。

But Queens - which is generally untouched by tourists except when they arrive and depart from Kennedy or La Guardia Airports - is surely worth a visit longer than 36 hours. If it were to secede from New York City would become the fourth most-populous city in America and almost certainly its most diverse. So I've added a few activities - all quite affordable, typical of the borough -- that didn't quite fit into 36 Hours but that I highly recommend.

皇后区很少有游客造访,除非他们需要从肯尼迪机场(Kennedy)或拉瓜迪亚机场(La Guardia Airport)起飞。但皇后区之旅绝对值得你花费36个小时以上的时间。如果皇后区从纽约市分离出来,就会成为美国人口第四多的城市,在文化多元性上更是名列前茅。所以我这里列举的活动就有点多,虽然36小时内无法完成,但确实都属于我的高度推荐。
 

7号列车穿过皇后区,背景是曼哈顿。

"I don't do Queens," a Manhattanite told me the other day. It was hardly the first time I'd heard the sentiment. That's another reason to come to Queens: impress your New York friends. Trips to Rockefeller Center and the Statue of Liberty may get you a roll of the eyes, but brag about enjoying a Korean spa or those tasty Ecuadorean quimbolitos, and you'll get their attention.

“我根本不去皇后区。”一个曼哈顿人曾对我这样说。这种说法我不是第一次听到,这也是造访皇后区的另一个理由:给纽约朋友留下深刻印象。造访洛克菲勒中心(Rockefeller Center)或自由女神像(Statue of Liberty)的经历可能让你的朋友兴致索然,但如果聊起你享受的韩式水疗或美味的厄瓜多瓦玉米面甜味蒸糕,肯定会变成注意力的中心。

Museums and Galleries

博物馆和画廊


Manhattan is not exactly an arts desert, but Long Island City, which is just across the East River, a couple of stops on the 7 train, has a few oases of its own.

严格来说,曼哈顿并不算艺术沙漠,但与它只隔一条东河(East River)、乘坐地铁7号线两站即达的长岛市却颇有几处艺术绿洲。

For 15 years MoMA PS1, the Museum of Modern Art's Queens branch, has counted on its summer afternoon dance parties to attract young new faces to its contemporary arts space, housed in a former public school (hence the name). This winter visitors are coming for another reason: the much-loved, short-lived restaurant M. Wells has been re-incarnated as M. Wells Dinette, a slightly less indulgent celebration of creative and often elaborate Québécois-inspired cooking. It hews to museum hours, which means no dinner service, and no service at all on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, but is a great lunch spot just steps from the Court House Square stop on the 7. Prices aren't dirt-cheap, but one could easily concoct a meal for, say, $30 or so.

15年来,纽约当代艺术博物馆(Museum of Modern Art,简称MoMA)在皇后区的分馆MoMA PS1一直靠夏季的午后舞会将年轻人吸引到它的当代艺术空间。分馆设在一所以前的公共学校内,它的名字PS1(字面意思“学前1班”)也源于此。今年冬天来这里的游客还有另一个理由:深受热爱但又异常短命的M. Wells饭店复活了,现在的名字叫M. Wells Dinette餐馆。它的菜品不算特别有创意,烹饪风格以魁北克菜系为主。餐馆的营业时间也与博物馆一致,这意味着不做晚餐,周二周三也不营业。但在其他日子,这里是享受丰盛午餐的好地点,距离7号线的法院广场(Court House Square)站只有几步之遥。价格不算特别低,但你可以以30美元左右的价格享受一顿美味是不难做到的。

Oh yeah, there's art at PS1 too (suggested admission, $10). The Web site notes its devotion to "the most experimental art in the world," which seems boastful. But the exhibitions are consistently mind-bending and provocative. Just this weekend, I saw Thomas Lanigan-Schmidt's Byzantine-influenced, kitsch-inspired, gay-sexuality-referencing mixed-media creations, then tried to figure out pieces by Margaret Lee that combined vegetables with telephones, and finally wandered through an exhibition on the African-American arts scene in Los Angeles from 1960 to 1980. I'm a finicky (read: easily bored) museum-goer, but lingered much longer than I had planned.

哦对了,当代艺术博物馆的PS1分馆还可以欣赏艺术(建议入场费10美元)。博物馆的网站声称它致力于“世界上最具实验性的艺术”,听起来有点夸张。但这里的展览一直都与众不同发人深省。就在这个周末,我看到托马斯·拉尼甘-施密特(Thomas Lanigan-Schmidt)深受拜占庭文化影响、以粗俗涂鸦为灵感并以同性恋性行为为内容的混媒体作品,接着又思考了玛格丽特·李(Margaret Lee)将蔬菜和电话机捆绑起来的深刻含义,最后长久地流连在一个以1960至1980年洛杉矶非裔美国艺术事件为主题的展览中。我对博物馆的品味很难取悦(也即,总是迅速厌倦),但在这家博物馆停留的时间显然超过了我的打算。

Walking out of PS1, I couldn't help noticing tiny Space Womb across the street, a testament to the effectiveness of painting neon-pink amoebic figure on your storefront. Inside the gallery I found some of the most affordable original art imaginable in its exhibition "Postcard," mostly from youngish Asian artists. Pieces - not surprisingly, the size of a postcard -- are on sale for as low as $20 (and many for under $100).

走出PS1分馆,我立刻看到街道对面的小画廊“太空子宫”(Space Womb),这说明在店门口喷绘霓虹色异形图案效果不错。走进画廊,我发现在一个叫做“明信片”的展览中,有几件价格非常廉宜的原创艺术品。作者大都是比较年轻的亚洲艺术家,展品价格最低的20美元,但大部分都在100美元以下。

The Noguchi Museum (admission, $10) is the other must-visit cultural spot, and it couldn't be anywhere but in Long Island City -- in fact, across the street from the spot where the 20th-century sculptor Isamu Noguchi lived and worked. Noguchi, who died in 1988, himself designed the outdoor sculpture garden and indoor exhibition space, and they are filled with his curvy, abstract stonework. It's important to visit on a nice day, in order to best take in the outdoor space. While you're there, hop across the street to the Socrates Sculpture Park, formerly an illegal dumpsite along the East River and now a free sculpture garden smack on the East River.

野口博物馆(Noguchi Museum,门票10美元)是另一个不可错过的文化场所,而且只有长岛才会有这种地方存在——事实上,博物馆的对面就是20世纪雕塑家野口勇(Isamu Noguchi)曾经生活和工作的地方。1988年去世的野口亲自设计了这座博物馆的露天雕塑公园和室内展览空间,现在馆内到处都是他扭曲而抽象的石雕作品。为了充分享受它的室外空间,选择天气晴好的日子来访非常重要。既然你已来,就到街道对面的苏格拉底雕塑公园(Socrates Sculpture Park)看看吧。公园以前是东河边上一个非法的垃圾填埋场,现在则变成一个免费的雕塑公园,成为东河河畔的一处风景。

Indulging

沉溺


Relaxing in Queens is not all about $22 foot massages. For $35 on weekdays and $45 on weekends, you can spend all day at Spa Castle, courtesy of one of Queens's biggest immigrant groups, the Koreans. The four-story building in College Point (with a free shuttle from Flushing) attracts a cross section of Queens to its wild variety of saunas, including one lined with plates of gold, and another that uses color therapy "to help you achieve your desired state of well-being" (results not guaranteed). There are also elaborate hot tubs, with acupressure jets, both indoors and out, and plenty of massages and treatments. There's even sushi, Korean and other fare and Starbucks coffee. (Don't worry - the place is immaculately clean.) Massages, treatments and food and drink are extra.

在皇后区放松不只意味着22美元做次足疗。拜皇后区最大的移民群体韩国人所赐,在这里非周末花费35美元或周末花费45美元,就可以在温泉城堡待上一整天。这座位于大学岬(有摆渡车往返法拉盛)的四层建筑以多种桑拿服务吸引了皇后区不同区域的顾客。有的桑拿会给顾客全身贴满金片,有的会用色彩疗法“帮你实现期待已久的安宁”(不能保证有效)。那里也有精心设计、带有针压按摩功能的热水浴缸(包括室内室外两种)和各种按摩和理疗服务。此外还有寿司、韩国和其他国家的美食和星巴克咖啡。(不用担心——这个地方一尘不染,干净至极)。按摩、各种疗法以及餐饮需要另收费。

The Walk-and-Eat

散步和就餐


Don't miss a Queens specialty: the walk-and-eat neighborhood stroll. After skipping breakfast, pick a neighborhood (especially in northwest Queens), start walking and see what you find. Stop at newsstands to see what language papers are for sale, peek into the shops selling religious icons, wonder what a fishing tackle store is doing under the 7 train, keep a running count of displays of burkas versus too-tight spandex. But more than anything else, eat. I gave one route through Jackson Heights in the 36 Hours piece, but there are countless others. Here are three possibilities.

不要错过皇后区的特产:在充满饭馆的步行街区散步。跳过早餐,然后随便找个街区(尤其是皇后区西北部),边走边看。在报亭边略作停留,看看都卖哪些语言的报纸;瞅瞅商店里出售的宗教玩偶;琢磨一下7号线下方的钓具商店在做什么;数数街上走过的身穿穆斯林长袍和氨纶紧身衣的人是多少。但比这些都重要的是,吃。我在36小时玩转的文章中推荐过一条杰克逊高地(Jackson Heights)的路线,但这样的路线还有许多。下面推荐三条:

Astoria

阿斯托利亚(Astoria)


From the Noguchi Museum you can stroll up Broadway (the Queens version) into Astoria, a hodgepodge of ethnicity with a reasonable dose of gentrification. You'll see a mix of restaurants from Greek to Brazilian to Middle Eastern. One recent day I was drawn to Pão de Queijo by the Brazilian style hamburger ($6.25 and up), which are less known for meat quality and more for their toppings. The X-tudo, for example, has ham, cheese, bacon, egg, calabresa sausage, corn, potato sticks, lettuce, tomato what were we talking about again? Another day my favorite food stop was at Astoria Bier & Cheese, which opened in late September. For local residents, it's shopping that saves a trip to Manhattan, but more relevant for visitors are the $7 sandwiches, including a grilled cheese made with holzhofer (a tangy Swiss with a punch) and beautiful melted buttery toasted bread. On a cold, rainy evening it went great with an $5 Bear Republic Big Black Bear Stout.

走出野口博物馆,沿着百老汇大街(Broadway,皇后区的那条百老汇)即可到达阿斯托利亚,一个种裔复杂、适度中产阶级化的多元社区。你会看到世界各种风味的饭馆,从希腊到巴西到中东,各种口味都有。不久前的一天,我被Pão de Queijo的巴西汉堡(起价6.25美元)吸引了过去,这种汉堡出名的不是肉饼质量而是配料。比如,X-tudo汉堡夹了火腿、奶酪、培根、卡拉布雷萨香肠(calabresa sausage)、玉米、薯条、生菜、番茄……我们在讨论什么来着?另一天我最爱的就餐地点是9月底开业的阿斯托利亚啤酒和奶酪(Astoria Bier & Cheese)。对当地居民来说,在这里购物就不用专门跑一趟曼哈顿。但游客更关心的是多种7美元的汉堡,其中一种夹着霍尔兹奶酪(一种味道浓烈的辣味瑞士奶酪)做成的煎奶酪,面包片的黄油也融得恰到好处。在下雨的冷夜,点上一杯啤酒共和国(Bear Republic)的大黑啤(Big Black Bear Stout),5美元就能感觉温暖妥帖。

Woodside

林边(Woodside)


I always liked how the area around Roosevelt Avenue in Woodside somehow managed a homey feel even as 7 trains rattled overhead. Get off at the 52nd Street stop and you'll immediately find La Flor, a warm, welcoming, full-functioning restaurant and bakery that succeeds in combining elegant Mexican dishes with homey continental fare. Ordering frugally is a bit of a challenge, but a plate of chicken flautas (rolled-up-and-fried tortillas) presented prettily under a blanket of red and green salsa ($6.95) and a rich, dense flan ($5.95) made for a light meal.

我一直喜欢林边罗斯福大街(Roosevelt Avenue)一带,这个区域以一种奇特的方式在7号线从头顶轰鸣而过的情况下制造出亲切家常的气氛。在52街站下车后,你会立刻看到La Flor,一家温暖好客、功能齐全的餐馆兼烘焙坊。它将优雅的墨西哥美食与欧陆家常菜成功地融为一体。在这里寻找价廉物美的菜品有点难度,但一盘鸡肉卷饼(一种卷好再油炸的墨西哥肉卷)在红绿蔬菜组成的丰盛沙拉(6.95美元)下面相当好看,再加上一份厚实且营养丰富的果馅饼(5.95美元)就是一顿不错的简餐。

Might as well keep it light in case Ñaño's, the Ecuadorean restaurant across the street, has a tempting sandwich-oard sign out front as it did when I visited recently, advertising "morocho," "humitas" and "quilombitos." In Queens, when you don't recognize a dish's name, the appropriate thing to do is to try it. I passed on the morocho, a hot corn-based drink, but tried the other two tamale-like dishes. The humita - steamed corn cake with cheese - beat out the raisin-studded quilombito. (A tip: Don't wash it down, as I did, with a cloying Tropical brand apple soda.) The total bill was $8, plus tip. If you still have room, there are plenty of Irish pubs in the area to grab a pint. Head west and you'll hit Donovan's, best known for its city-famous burgers; head east, onto Skillman Avenue, and you've got your pick of the Kettle and the Brogue.

街道对面的厄瓜多尔餐馆Ñaño’s,也是吃简餐的好去处。最近我去时,它的门面挂着诱人的汉堡图案,叫卖摩洛可玉米汁(morocho)、南美玉米饼(humitas)和厄瓜多瓦玉米面甜味蒸糕。在皇后区,如果某道菜的名字你没见过,最好的应对策略是尝一下。我放弃了摩洛可,一种用玉米做成的辣味饮料,然后享受了装饰着葡萄干的玉米面蒸糕。(贴士:不要像我那样用饮料将它迅速冲下肠胃,我当时用的是味道甜腻的热带牌[Tropical]苹果汽水。)这一餐价格8美元另加小费。如果你的胃仍有空间,可到附近的多家爱尔兰酒吧找一家喝酒。从这里向西,就是以汉堡而闻名全城的Donovan’s。向东的话,走上斯基尔曼大道(Skillman Avenue)就会找到让人兴奋的“水壶和爱尔兰土话”(Kettle and the Brogue)。

Flushing

法拉盛


New York's best Chinatown is also its best Koreatown, and adventures abound in all directions. (Window-shopping for ginseng root alone could kill an hour.) But if you need direction, I'd suggest starting at the Flushing branch of the Queens Library (near the Main Street stop of the 7 train), a striking dose of blue-green glass modernity in the midst of the bustle. Wander in to see how packed it gets, to count how many languages DVDs come in or just to browse the manga collection. Finish at the massive Korean supermarket H-Mart (29-02 Union Street), just over a mile away. What will you find in between? Who knows? But it will be interesting -- that's a Queens guarantee.

纽约最好的唐人街兼最好的韩国人聚居地拥有大量的探险玩法(光是欣赏橱窗里的各种人参就足以用掉一个小时)。但如果你需要建议的话,请将皇后区图书馆在法拉盛的分馆(靠近7号线的缅街站[Main Street])当做起点。这里蓝绿色的玻璃建筑是繁忙都市里一道动人的风景。走近建筑,体验一下这里有多么拥挤,数数有多少语言种的DVD,或仅仅浏览一下此地海量的藏书。终点是大型韩国超市H-Mart(29-02 Union Street),全程约1英里。两者之间你会看到什么?谁也不知道,但肯定非常好玩——在皇后区这是件确定无疑的事。
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