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36小时玩转澳门

36 Hours in Macau
36小时玩转澳门

LIKE an unabashed exhibitionist, Macau can’t help itself. This former Portuguese colony perpetually flaunts its frenetic side. Bungee jumpers diving from the 61st floor of a gleaming tower. Surfers hanging 10 in a rooftop wave pool. Dragons materializing in surreal fog during dazzling multimedia shows. And let’s not forget the gambling and gaming that saturates Macau’s 35 casinos, including the Sands Cotai Central, a resort complex that opened earlier this year. But don’t let the sensory overload eclipse a more serene, sophisticated side that’s defined by lush landscapes, art galleries, avant-garde design shops and low-key bars.

像个不知耻的暴露癖患者似的,澳门几乎无法控制自己。这个昔日的葡萄牙殖民地一直在永不停息地炫耀着自己疯狂的一面。喜欢蹦极的人们从一座华丽高楼的61层跳下。冲浪高手在楼顶的浪池中双脚紧踩浪板,尽享冲浪乐趣。在令人目眩的多媒体演出中,中华龙在迷离的烟雾中忽然现身。此外不要忘掉澳门35家赌场里充斥的各种赌博游戏,包括今年早些时候开业的金沙城中心(Sands Cotai Central)度假酒店。但是,不要让这些感官体验压倒了澳门宁静深刻的一面,那些葱茏的风景、美术馆、前卫设计商店和低调的酒吧。

Friday

星期五

3 p.m.

下午3点

1. SCENIC ENCLAVE

1.风景优美的飞地


Most visitors snap a photo of the wavy black-and-white stone paving of Senado Square, a pedestrian plaza that’s the symbolic heart of the peninsula, and move on. Instead, walk into the neo-Classical Leal Senado, a k a IACM Building (Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro 163; 853-2833-7676) where a granite staircase leads to a hidden courtyard garden. Portuguese tiles (azulejos), ivy-covered walls and blooming flowers all make this an oasis of tranquillity.

议事厅前广场(Senado Square)是个步行广场,常被认为澳门半岛的中心。大多数游客到达广场之后,只对着黑白石砌成的波浪花纹的地面照张相就匆匆离开。其实,只要走进新古典主义风格的民政总署大楼(Leal Senado,也叫IACM Building;Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro 163;853-2833-7676),就可以通过花岗岩楼梯到达一个隐秘的庭院花园。葡萄牙式的花砖(葡语名称azulejos)、覆满常青藤的墙壁和蓬勃绽放的花朵,让这里变成都市里一处宁静的绿洲。
 

龙环葡韵住宅式博物馆(Taipa Houses Museum)为游客提供了一个了解此地殖民时代丰富生活方式的窗口。

4 p.m.

下午4点

2. HANDBAGS AND TILES

2.手袋和瓷砖


Once a home for unmarried women known as the “Old Ladies’ House,” the Albergue SCM (Calçada da Igreja de São Lázaro 8; 853-2852-2550; facebook.com/albergue.scm) is a complex of Mediterranean-style villas surrounding a shady courtyard that holds fashion, art and architecture shows, workshops and exhibitions. It is also the setting where the Portuguese design team Clara Brita and Manuel Correia da Silva dream up innovative handbags, clothing, lighting fixtures and furniture to sell at their atelier-shop, Lines Lab (853-2852-3869; lineslab.com). Next door, the Portuguese Corner Shop (853-2856-2708; merceariaportuguesa.com) specializes in traditional Portuguese goods, including filigree jewelry (up to 890 patacas, or about $115 at 7.68 patacas to the dollar) and hand-painted tiles (up to 140 patacas).

以前曾是未婚女子居住地、俗称“老姑婆之家”的Albergue SCM(Calçada da Igreja de São Lázaro 8; 853-2852-2550; facebook.com/albergue.scm)是一片地中海风格的别墅群,它们围成的庭院绿树成荫,里面驻扎着许多工作室,经常举办时尚、艺术和建筑方面的演出和展览。也是在这里,葡萄牙设计师克拉拉·布里塔(Clara Brita)和曼纽尔·科里亚达希尔瓦(Manuel Correia da Silva)组成的设计团队创造出各种手袋、服装、照明灯具和家具,并在自己的工作室兼商店“线条实验室”(Lines Lab;853-2852-3869; lineslab.com)中出售。隔壁的“葡萄牙街角小店”(Portuguese Corner Shop;853-2856-2708; merceariaportuguesa.com)专卖葡萄牙传统物品,包括金银丝首饰(最高890澳门元,约合115美元,以1美元兑换7.68澳门元计)和手绘瓷砖(最高140澳门元)。

7 p.m.

晚上7点

3. PIZZA IN MACAU?

3.在澳门吃披萨?


You don’t travel to Macau for just any slice of pizza. But Antica Trattoria da Isa (Avenida Sir Anders Ljungstedt 40-46; 853-2875-5102), a family-owned Italian restaurant, entices with its rustic charm (hanging garlic cloves, antique clocks and other collectibles) and pizza topped with Portuguese sausage. Exotic specials may include wild boar pappardelle and tripe Bolognese style. Dinner for two without wine: 138 patacas.

你并不是为了吃披萨才来澳门旅游的。但家庭经营的意大利餐馆Antica Trattoria da Isa (Avenida Sir Anders Ljungstedt 40-46; 853-2875-5102)却用它的乡村魅力(悬挂的蒜头、老爷钟和其他收藏品)和堆满葡萄牙香肠的披萨吸引了大批顾客。充满异国风情的菜品包括配有野猪肉的意式宽面条和加了动物内脏的波隆那肉酱。两人晚餐不含酒水:138澳门元。

9 p.m.

晚上9点

4. SWING, JAZZ, WINE

4.摇摆舞、爵士乐和美酒


Macau Soul (Rua de São Paulo 31A; 853-2836-5182; macausoul.com) is an antidote to the peninsula’s glare and glitter. Down the hill from the ruins of St. Paul’s Church, Macau’s famous landmark, this cozy wine bar-lounge is bedecked with personal touches: framed paintings, photos and Asian ceramics that the somewhat eccentric owners, a British expat couple, David and Jacky Higgins, have amassed. Settle in and listen to an eclectic selection of music, sometimes live, from swing to jazz, while sipping one of the more than 400 Portuguese labels, including fine balanced reds from the Alentejo region.

“澳门灵魂”酒吧(Macau Soul; Rua de São Paulo 31A; 853-2836-5182; macausoul.com)是澳门半岛浮华景象的解毒剂。从澳门著名的地标建筑“大三巴牌坊”(ruins of St. Paul’s Church)出发,沿着山路向下走就能到达这家舒适的休闲酒吧。酒吧的主人是客居此地、性格古怪的英国夫妇戴维·希金斯和杰姬·希金斯(David and Jacky Higgins)。酒吧的装饰也充满个人特色,装了框的画作、照片和亚洲陶瓷都是这对店主的个人收藏。坐下来欣赏这里风格多样的音乐(偶尔会有现场演出),从摇摆舞音乐到爵士乐应有尽有。同时从400多种葡萄牙美酒中选一种慢慢品味,酒单包括口感纯正的红酒和来自阿特连茹(Alentejo)地区的葡萄酒。

Saturday

星期六

9 a.m.

上午9点

5. A SALUBRIOUS STROLL

5.强身健体的散步


Do as the locals do and head to the spacious Camões Garden (Praça Luís de Camões), one of Macau’s oldest parks. Named for the great Portuguese national poet, this boulder-studded expanse is blanketed with immense ficus and other century-old trees, and attracts a wide swath of citizens, from tai chi practitioners to local elders who, rather than walking their dogs, stroll while carrying their pet songbirds in ornate wooden cages. Take off your shoes and walk across the pebbly reflexology path.

学着当地人的样子,到宽敞的卡莫伊斯花园(Camões Garden, Praça Luís de Camões)去散步。卡莫伊斯花园是澳门最古老的公园之一,得名于葡萄牙伟大的民族诗人卡莫伊斯。巨大的榕树和其他百年古树使镶满圆石的广场撒满绿荫,吸引了大批居民,包括练太极拳的和当地的老人。这些老人不是牵着宠物狗,而是拎着一只精致的木头鸟笼,里面装着宠物鸟。脱下鞋子,在卵石小路上体验一下足底按摩。

10 a.m.

上午10点

6. STEEP JOG

6.山崖慢跑


Most people hop on the speedy cable car to the top of Guia Hill with its 17th-century fort (Estrada do Engenheiro Trigo; 853-8394-3703); the city views can’t be beat. But what’s the rush? Instead, lace up your sneakers for a steep walk or jog up. Check out the nearby lighthouse (said to be the oldest on China’s coast) and a small chapel with faded biblical and Chinese-themed frescoes. Then descend a bit to the 1.2-mile pedestrian path, though you might not want to follow the example of local runners who jog without shoes.

许多人都会跳上一班高速缆车,到东望洋山(Guia Hill)山顶欣赏17世纪的古堡(Estrada do Engenheiro Trigo; 853-8394-3703)。站在那里俯瞰澳门,风景美不胜收。但为什么非要这么快呢?其实,你可以换上跑鞋,沿着山路走到或者慢跑到顶峰。沿途可以欣赏附近的灯塔(据说是中国沿海最古老的灯塔)和一座小教堂,教堂里以圣经和中国文化为主题的壁画虽已褪色,但仍值得一看。然后向下跑一段,就可到达1.2英里长的步行小道,不过你可能不愿像当地人一样光脚跑步。

1 p.m.

下午1点

7. BITES AND BIRDS

7.美食和水鸟


Rua do Cunha, known as the Food Street, on Taipa Island is the place to go to sate your afternoon appetite. Along this pedestrian lane, sample the almond biscuits, a local favorite, and paper-thin strips of myriad jerkies, spicy chicken and wild boar among them. Then head to Casa do António (Rua dos Negociantes 7; 853-2882-7892), a coffee shop that the gregarious chef António Coelho opened (he helms another restaurant, António, across the street). His Portuguese egg tarts are made using a traditional recipe (12 patacas). Wander over to the Taipa Houses Museum (Avenida da Praia; 853-2882-7103; housesmuseum.iacm.gov.mo; admission, 5 patacas), a set of green-and-white-painted villas that offer a window onto the affluent colonial era. Don’t miss the exquisitely handcrafted rosewood desk in the study of the Macanese House. In this setting, beside a tranquil, waterlily-coated wetland, you may spot egrets and spoonbills.

氹仔岛(Taipa Island)上的官也街(Rua do Cunha)俗称“美食街”,是下午时分享受零食的好地方。沿着这条步行街,尽情品尝当地特产杏仁饼、种类繁多但都像绵纸一样轻薄的牛肉干、麻辣鸡肉和野猪肉。接下来就直奔“安东尼奥之家”(Casa do António; Rua dos Negociantes 7; 853-2882-7892)咖啡馆。咖啡馆的店主兼大厨安东尼·科埃略(António Coelho)个性开朗,喜欢交朋友。(他还有一家叫做安东尼奥[António]的餐馆,就在咖啡馆的对面。)他家的葡式蛋挞(12澳门元)全部用传统方式烹制。再走几步,就到了龙环葡韵住宅式博物馆(Taipa Houses Museum; Avenida da Praia; 853-2882-7103; housesmuseum.iacm.gov.mo; 门票5澳门元)。这片绿白色调的别墅群给游客提供了一个了解此地殖民时代丰富生活方式的窗口。千万别错过“土生葡人之家”(Macanese House)书房里精致的手工红木书桌。附近有一片静谧而覆满睡莲的湿地,有时候会看到白鹭和琵鹭。

4 p.m.

下午4点

8. ART ESCAPE

8.艺术假期


Glimpse Macau’s contemporary art scene at the Tap Seac Gallery (Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida 95; 853-839-96699; macauart.net/TS/indexe.asp). It’s housed in a historic neo-Classical building decked out with arched doorways and wooden shutters. Here, both local and international artists of all stripes, from avant-garde sculptors to abstract painters, display their oeuvre in a sun-washed space.

欣赏澳门当代艺术可到塔石艺文馆(Tap Seac Gallery;Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida 95; 853-839-96699; macauart.net/TS/indexe.asp)。它位于一座新古典主义的历史建筑中,有圆拱形的走廊和木制的百叶窗。阳光充沛的展厅内摆着当地和外来艺术家的大量作品,从前卫雕塑到抽象主义绘画,各种流派都有。

7 p.m.

下午7点

9. PIG’S EAR, ANYONE?

9.有人想吃猪耳朵吗?

 
Despite its unremarkable facade, A Petisqueira (Rua de São João 15; 853-2882-5354) is a standout with flavorful Portuguese dishes and friendly service. The homey restaurant with checkered tablecloths and Portuguese knickknacks packs diners in (reservations are necessary). The menu is heavy on market-fresh seafood. Fried clams and grilled boar loin are noteworthy, as is the pig’s ear salad. Dinner for two without wine: 488 patacas.

葡国美食天地(Petisqueira; Rua de São João 15; 853-2882-5354)虽然外表平淡无奇,但却是享受葡萄牙美食的好地方,服务态度也不错。风格亲切家常,装饰以棋格花纹桌布和其他葡萄牙摆设为特色。这家餐馆经常客满为患,所以预订非常重要。菜肴以海味为主,原料都是刚从市场买来的,非常新鲜。爆炒蛤蜊和烧烤野猪里脊味道出众,还有猪耳朵做成的凉菜沙拉。两人用餐不含酒水:488澳门元。

10 p.m.

晚上10点

10. ROMANCE ON THE ROCKS

10.岩石上的浪漫


Even if you’re not a romantic, head to the Terrace (Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra; 853-2896-8686; saotiago.com.mo). Housed in a 17th-century converted fort, this atmospheric cafe-cum-lounge bar is part of the Pousada da São Tiago, a hotel that’s literally hewed into a rocky shelf facing Macau’s Inner Harbor. First, enter the pousada through a stone and brick tunnel with trickling water; then relax in the calm setting with a liter of red wine sangria (300 patacas) that’s spiked with gin and garnished with apple and orange slices.

即使你不是个浪漫主义者,也要到“阳台餐吧”(Terrace; Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra; 853-2896-8686; saotiago.com.mo)看一看。这家情调十足的餐馆兼休闲酒吧位于一座重新装修的17世纪古堡中,属于圣地亚哥古堡酒店(Pousada da São Tiago)的一部分。酒店正对着澳门的内港(Inner Harbor),完全是从陡崖上劈山挖石建成的。去往餐吧,需要穿过一条头顶滴水的砖石隧道。接下来,请就着一公升以红酒为基底并加了杜松子酒、苹果片和橘瓣的桑格利亚汽酒(300澳门元),在这宁静的地方好好放松一下。

Sunday

星期日

10 a.m.

上午10点

11. DESIGN MAGIC

11.设计魔法


Macau Creations (Rua da Ressurreição 5A; 853-2835-2954; macaucreations.com) is a haven for Macanese artist-designed products. Situated near St. Paul’s ruins, this shop sells simple objects transformed into whimsical creations with cultural undertones. Each of their lunar year teapots represents a different zodiac animal (480 patacas), and their Tobacco Wars magnets (70 patacas) symbolically protest Macau’s public smoking ban. Also on sale: a line of organic handbags displaying prizewinning children’s art (160 patacas).

“澳门造物”(Macau Creations; Rua da Ressurreição 5A; 853-2835-2954; macaucreations.com) 是寻访澳门当地艺术家设计的作品的好去处。这家店铺距离大三巴牌坊不远,出售由简单物件改装成的奇妙小玩意儿,带有文化隐喻。“阴历茶壶”每一只都代表一种动物生肖(480澳门元),“烟草战争(Tobacco Wars)”磁贴(70澳门元)则含蓄地表达了对澳门公共场所禁烟令的抗议。还有一系列用有机材料做成的手袋,上面印着获奖儿童绘画作品(160澳门元)。

11 a.m.

上午11点

12. STROLL AND SWIM

12.散步和游泳


Pack your bag with a swimsuit, towel and water bottle, and head for the hills. Macau’s longest path, the five-mile main Colôane Trail (Estrada do Alto de Colôane), is a magnet for hikers on the weekends. Start at the arboretum where the tree species are all labeled. Continue along the leafy loop that’s fairly flat. You’ll be rewarded with views of mainland China, and Colôane Island’s swath of sandy beaches. Bus No. 25 or No. 26A will take you to Hac Sa (Black Sand) Beach.

将泳衣、毛巾和瓶装水塞入背包,去爬山吧。澳门最长的步道科洛阿内小径(Colôane Trail,正式路名是Estrada do Alto de Colôane)全长5英里,对喜欢周末健行的人充满了吸引力。步道的起点是个植物园,各种树木都钉有标签。沿着这条绿树茵茵、地势平坦的环岛路线,继续前行。远处的中国大陆和科洛阿内岛(Colôane Island)细长的沙滩以美妙的风景给你回报。乘坐25或26A路公交车可以到达黑沙海滩(Hac Sa)。

1:30 p.m.

下午1:30

13. PORTUGUESE TREATS

13.葡萄牙美食


Right in the middle of placid Colôane Village, Restaurante Espaço Lisboa (Rua das Gaivotas 8; 853-2888-2226) is a bastion of Portuguese gastronomy. Make a reservation for the best seats in the 100-plus-year-old house: one of a handful of tables on the petite second-floor veranda. Choose the clams in white wine, garlic and coriander, or the seafood rice that’s loaded with prawns, clams and monkfish. Lunch for two without wine: 300 patacas.

里斯本餐厅(Restaurante Espaço Lisboa; Rua das Gaivotas 8; 853-2888-2226)位于祥和的科洛阿内村(Colôane Village)的正中央,是葡萄牙美食的大本营。小巧的二楼阳台上的几张桌子是这座有一百多年历史的餐馆里最好的座位,但必须预订才能抢到。菜品推荐用白葡萄酒、大蒜和香菜烹调的蛤蜊,或者海鲜炒饭,里面加了很多大虾、蛤蜊和安康鱼。两人午餐不含酒水:300澳门元。

IF YOU GO

住宿信息


The Pousada de São Tiago (Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra; 853-2837-8111; saotiago.com.mo), a 12-room hotel in a converted 17th-century fortress on Macau’s Inner Harbor, incorporates original stone into the design while offering such modern amenities as en suite hot tubs and a small swimming pool in a lush garden. Suites from 2,600 patacas (about $338).

拥有12套客房的圣地亚哥古堡酒店(Pousada de São Tiago; Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra; 853-2837-8111; saotiago.com.mo)位于澳门内港上方的山崖上,由一座17世纪的古堡改建而成。它将原有的岩石纳入装修设计之中,同时也提供了许多舒适的现代设施,包括室内浴缸和设在花木扶疏的花园中的小型游泳池。套房2600澳门元起(约338美元)。

At the Pousada de Mong-Há (Colina de Mong-Há; 853-2851-5222; ift.edu.mo/pousada), on the slopes of a verdant hill, the 20 rooms are decorated with Asian art and have garden views. As part of the Institute of Tourism Studies, students run the day-to-day operations. Suites start at 1,100 patacas.

望厦宾馆(Pousada de Mong-Há; Colina de Mong-Há; 853-2851-5222; ift.edu.mo/pousada)位于林木葱茏的山坡上,共有20套客房,装修风格带有亚洲艺术的韵味,有不错的花园风景。作为旅游研究学院(Institute of Tourism Studies)的一部分,这家宾馆由学生负责日常运营。套房1100澳门元起。
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