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36小时玩转都灵

36 Hours in Turin, Italy
36小时玩转都灵

WHEN it comes to urban reputations, being home to the Shroud of Turin and the headquarters of Fiat isn’t a lot to coast on. But Turin, Italy’s fourth-largest city, also has the elegant cafe culture of Trieste by day and the vibrant aperitivo scene of Milan by night, all while being nestled in Piedmont, arguably the finest food and wine region in Italy. Recently, the city inaugurated a stadium for the popular Juventus soccer club and reopened a pair of stellar museums highlighting the city’s multifaceted importance throughout Italy’s history. Turin, it seems, is revving its engine.

要说一座城市的名声,拥有都灵裹尸布(Shroud of Turin)和作为菲亚特(Fiat)汽车总部的所在地,都算不上什么值得炫耀的资本。不过作为意大利的第四大城市,都灵却可能算得上是意大利最好的美食美酒地带;虽然地处皮埃蒙特大区(Piedmont),但却能在白天拥有里雅斯特(Trieste)那样典雅的咖啡文化,在夜里拥有米兰地区那样鲜活的美酒风情。最近,这座城市著名的尤文图斯(Juventus)足球俱乐部新的球场也开幕了,还重开了两家大博物馆,更凸显了这座城市在意大利历史中多方面的重要地位。都灵,似乎正在加速前进。

Friday

星期五

4 p.m.

下午4点

1. SWEET STROLL

1. 甜蜜的漫步
 

从左至右:都灵王宫,Caffè Mulassano咖啡馆和国家汽车博物馆。

The famous gelato chain Grom (Piazza Pietro Paleocapa, 1/D; 39-011-511-9067; grom.it) started here, but for an artisanal, only-in-Turin experience, try the superior scoops of pistachio and torrone at the gelateria Alberto Marchetti (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24 bis; 39-011-839-0879; albertomarchetti.it). Take this creamy treat on a stroll through some of Turin’s prettiest areas, beginning at the expansive Piazza San Carlo, which is ringed with elegant Baroque buildings. Then march up Via Roma under the grand porticoes — Turin has over 11 miles of arcaded sidewalks — to the heart of the city, Piazza Castello. There, two regal House of Savoy palaces, Palazzo Madama and Palazzo Reale, sit in unassuming splendor; beyond the Reale is the chapel in which a certain shroud is squirreled away.

著名的冰淇淋连锁店Grom(地址:Piazza Pietro Paleocapa, 1/D;电话:39-011-511-9067;网址:grom.it)是在这里起源的,不过想要体验只在都灵才有的地道手艺,就要在Alberto Marchetti雪糕店(地址:Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24 bis;电话:39-011-839-0879;网址:albertomarchetti.it)品尝两勺特级开心果和蜂蜜果仁冰淇淋了。还可以拿着柔滑的雪糕漫步走过都灵最美的一些地方,从宽广的圣卡罗广场(Piazza San Carlo)开始,广场周围满是优雅的巴洛克式建筑。然后沿着罗马街(Via Roma)穿过那些巨大的门廊(都灵的门廊街道总长超过11英里)走到城市的中心——城堡广场(Piazza Castello)。在那里,两座萨伏依王朝(House of Savoy)时期的皇室宫殿——夫人宫(Palazzo Madama)和都灵王宫(Palazzo Reale)——正绽放着低调的华丽;在都灵王宫后面是一座小教堂,某一块裹尸布正存放在那里。

7 p.m.

傍晚7点

2. APERITIVO HOUR

2. 餐前酒菜


The city where vermouth originated cherishes its aperitivo culture, possibly the best in all of Italy. The liveliest neighborhood for partaking in this pre-dinner tradition is the Quadrilatero Romano, so snag a table at Pastis (Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 9; 39-011-521-1085), where your aperitivo — a Punt e Mes (4.50 euros, or $5.60 at $1.24 to the euro) is a good choice — will be accompanied by a free spread of stuzzichini (snacks). Or wander through the cobblestone streets to the funky bar Zonk (Via Gian Francesco Bellezia, 20; 39-335-657-4487), where 9 euros will buy a cocktail and unlimited access to the generous buffet.

这座苦艾酒起源的城市对它的餐前酒文化十分珍视,并且在这方面可能是全意大利最好的。享受这种餐前文化最活跃的地方就是一角罗马街区(Quadrilatero Romano)。所以请去Pastis餐厅(地址:Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 9;电话:39-011-521-1085)抢一张桌子,在那里,你的餐前酒——一杯潘脱米(Punt e Mes,4.50欧元或5.60美元,以1欧元兑1.24美元计)会是个不错的选择——会配上一份免费赠送的“stuzzichini”(小食)。你也可以穿过那些卵石街道,走到时髦的Zonk酒吧(地址:Via Gian Francesco Bellezia, 20;电话:39-335-657-4487),在那里,9欧元就可以买一杯鸡尾酒,并且有无限量的丰盛自助餐。

9 p.m.

晚上9点

3. SLOW SUPPER

3. 悠闲的晚餐


The Slow Food movement, which emphasizes locally sourced products, began in Piedmont, and one of the best restaurants in town devoted to the philosophy is a relative newcomer, Ristorante Consorzio (Via Monte di Pietà, 23; 39-011-276-7661; ristoranteconsorzio.com), a convivial spot with modern bare-bulb lighting. The excellent five-course set menu (30 euros) recently began with luscious beef tartare seasoned with sea salt and olive oil, and concluded with silky panna cotta drizzled with Barolo chinato. Reservations essential.

“慢食运动”(Slow Food movement)是从皮埃蒙特大区发起的,它重点集中在那些本地出产的食品上,而在城里忠于这种理念的餐厅中,最好的一家是相对比较新的Ristorante Consorzio(地址:Via Monte di Pietà, 23;电话:39-011-276-7661;网址:ristoranteconsorzio.com),这是一个欢乐的地方,用现代感强的裸灯泡照明。最近出品的五道菜套餐(30欧元)极其美味,以满足味觉的鞑靼牛肉配海盐及橄榄油作头盘,最后以柔滑的鲜奶酪洒上巴罗洛(Barolo)葡萄酒结束。就餐须订位。

Midnight

午夜

4. ONE APPLE A DAY

4. 每日一苹果


Hordes descend on the thumping clubs built into the murazzi (embankments) along the Po River where the dancing grinds into the early morning. But this riparian crowd skews very young (and very drunk). For a more sophisticated scene, flirt with fashionable Torinesi at One Apple Concept Bar (Via Lovera di Maria, 1; 39-011-197-19445; oneappletorino.it), a trendy hot spot that was opened in July 2011 by Daniele Conte, brother of the manager of Juventus, Antonio Conte. D.J.’s keep the party humming late.

大部分人会涌去波河(Po River)河畔嵌在“murazzi”(堤岸)上的夜店,在那里,怦怦的音乐声会让人们一直跳到清晨。不过在河边的这群人通常都很年轻(并且喝得很醉)。想要找更成熟高雅的地方,就可以去“一苹果概念酒吧”(One Apple Concept Bar,地址:Via Lovera di Maria, 1;电话:39-011-197-19445;网址:oneappletorino.it)感受都灵风情。这是一个很时尚的热门地点,2011年7月由尤文图斯队主教练安东尼奥·孔蒂(Antonio Conte)的兄弟丹尼埃里·孔蒂(Daniele Conte)开设。这里的DJ会让派对一直嗡鸣到深夜。

Saturday

星期六

10 a.m.

上午10点

5. MORNING BICERIN

5. 早晨一小杯


Swap your morning coffee for a bicerin — a layered concoction of coffee, hot chocolate and foamy milk, served in a tulip-shaped glass (5 euros) — at Caffè Al Bicerin (Piazza della Consolata, 5; 39-011-436-9325; bicerin.it). Dating back to 1763, this historic cafe, with its eight marble tables and dark wood boiserie, was supposedly the first to serve the drink, which pairs perfectly with a slice of moist hazelnut cake (4 euros).

在“小杯子咖啡馆”(Caffè Al Bicerin,地址:Piazza della Consolata, 5;电话:39-011-436-9325;网址:bicerin.it)用一杯“博瑟琳”(bicerin,都灵特饮,在皮埃蒙特语中意为“小杯子”)来替代你的早晨咖啡吧——这是一种层次丰富的调和饮品,用咖啡、热巧克力和泡沫牛奶调成,盛在一杯郁金香形的玻璃杯中(5欧元)。这家历史可上溯到1763年的古老咖啡馆,有八张大理石桌子,墙上是深色的细木护壁板。据说它是最早出品这种特饮的,配上一块湿软的榛子蛋糕(4欧元)将会非常完美。

11 a.m.

上午11点

6. BACK TO THE BEGINNING

6. 回归起点


March 2011 marked the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. In Turin, the first capital of the unified kingdom, the celebration included the reopening of the newly renovated Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 5; 39-011-562-1147; museorisorgimentotorino.it), which explores that historic period and its heroes. Here, beneath beautiful frescoes, put faces to the names — Cavour, Garibaldi, Mazzini, Vittorio Emanuele II — now immortalized in Italian street nomenclature. For still older history, a block away is the Museo delle Antichità Egizie (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6; 39-011-561-7776; museoegizio.it), home to one of the largest collections of Egyptian artifacts outside Cairo.

2011年3月是意大利统一150周年纪念。在都灵,这座王国统一后的第一个首都,庆祝活动包括了重新开放新修复的意大利国家复兴博物馆(Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano,地址:Via Accademia delle Scienze, 5;39-011-562-1147;museorisorgimentotorino.it),它仔细探寻了那一段历史时期以及当中的英雄人物。在这里,在美丽的壁画下,人们可以将那些面容与名字对起来了——加富尔(Cavour)、加里波第(Garibaldi)、马志尼(Mazzini)、维托里奥·埃马努埃莱二世(Vittorio Emanuele II)等名字,都被用于命名意大利的街道,从而不朽于世上。如果还想寻找更久远的历史,一个街区之外便是古埃及博物馆(Museo delle Antichità Egizie,地址:Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6;电话:36-011-561-7776;网址:museoegizio.it),它是除开罗以外最大的埃及手工艺品收藏地之一。

2 p.m.

下午2点

7. CAFE CULTURE

7. 咖啡馆文化


For a taste of Turin’s classic cafes, order the house aperitif at Caffè Mulassano (Piazza Castello, 15; 39-011-547-990; caffemulassano.com) and nibble on tramezzini, crustless finger sandwiches the cafe claims to have invented (3.50 euros each). There are only a handful of tables in the high-ceilinged, mirror-walled spot, so if it’s full, try the nearby Baratti & Milano (Piazza Castello, 27; 39-011-440-7138; barattiemilano.it), another refined cafe with crystal chandeliers and bow-tied bartenders. After lunch, indulge in a few giandujotti (chocolate and hazelnut confections that are a local specialty) at the chocolate shop Guido Gobino (Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1; 39-011-566-0707; guidogobino.it).

想感受一下都灵的经典咖啡馆,可在Caffè Mulassano(地址:Piazza Castello, 15;电话:39-011-547-990;网址:caffemulassano.com)点一杯咖啡馆自制的餐前酒,尝一口三明治三角圈(tramezzini),这家餐厅自称是他们发明了这一种无硬边的手抓三明治(3.50欧元)。这家有高天花板和镜子墙的小店只有寥寥几张桌子,所以如果客满的话,可以试试去附近的巴拉逖与米兰诺(Baratti & Milano,地址:Piazza Castello, 27;电话:39-011-440-7138;网址:barattiemilano.it),这是另外一家雅致的咖啡馆,有水晶枝形吊灯和打领结的吧台侍应。午餐后,还可以在巧克力店Guido Gobino(地址:Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1;电话:39-011-566-0707;网址:guidogobino.it)放纵自己吃几颗“giandujotti”巧克力(当地特产的巧克力和榛仁甜点)。

4:30 p.m.

下午4点30分

8. A SMALL SPREE

8. 小型狂欢


Turin’s best shopping is not at flashy designer emporiums but at discreet boutiques like Verdelilla (Corso Re Umberto, 27; 39-011-517-2701; verdelilla.it). The wares at this charming shop, which is hidden in an inner courtyard behind a stained-glass gate, range from delicate bracelets to glittering bead-encrusted camisoles. At Kristina Ti (Via Maria Vittoria, 18; 39-011-837-170; kristinati.it), try on silver silk dresses and retro ruffled bikinis from the respected hometown designer Cristina Tardito. Or browse well-priced leather goods and handcrafted pottery at Brodo (Via Palazzo di Città, 14; 39-011-199-12997; ibrodo.it), a small shop that opened in October.

都灵的最佳购物地点并非在华丽的设计师品牌商店,而是在像Verdelilla(地址:Corso Re Umberto, 27;电话:39-011-517-2701;网址:verdelilla.it)这样低调的精品时装店里。这是一家迷人的小店,躲藏在一扇彩色玻璃门后面的内庭院里。里面的商店从精致的手镯到闪亮的镶珠女装背心不一而足。而在Kristina Ti(地址:Via Maria Vittoria, 18;电话:39-011-837-170;网址:kristinati.it),可以试穿备受尊崇的本土设计师克里斯蒂娜·塔尔迪托(Cristina Tardito)设计的银色丝绸连衣裙和复古褶边比基尼。又或者,可以在去年10月开业的小店Brodo(地址:Via Palazzo di Città, 14;电话:39-011-199-12997;网址: ibrodo.it)随意看看那些昂贵的皮具和手工陶器。

8 p.m.

晚上8点

9. MOLE TWO WAYS

9. 尖塔之上和尖塔之下


Florence has its Duomo; Turin has the Mole Antonelliana. Crowned with a massive dome and conical spire, the soaring building is the symbol of the city. Skip the cinema museum inside, but do ride the glass elevator to the observation deck for the best view of the city (and, before sunset, the nearby Alps). Afterward, dinner is just steps away at Sotto la Mole (Via Montebello, 9; 39-011-817-9398; sottolamole.eu), an inviting restaurant specializing in regional cuisine. Start with the warm antipasti plate (13.50 euros) to sample cheesy polenta, stuffed onions and red pepper with bagna caôda. Then savor handmade agnolotti — delectable meat-filled dumplings — smothered in a buttery, herb-scented sauce (13 euros).

佛罗伦萨有她的大教堂,都灵则有她的安托内利尖塔(Mole Antonelliana)。这座高耸的建筑有一个巨大的圆形屋顶和圆锥形塔尖,是这座城市的地标。你可以忽略里面的电影博物馆,但一定要坐玻璃电梯上瞭望塔,一览城中最美的全景(日落之前,还会看到附近的阿尔卑斯山)。在这之后,吃晚餐的地方就在几步之外的“尖塔之下”餐厅(Sotto la Mole,地址:Via Montebello, 9;电话:39-011-817-9398;网址:sottolamole.eu),这是一家诱人的餐厅,专门供应地方菜色。可以先来一道温暖的开胃菜(13.50欧元)——奶酪粥以及填了热蘸酱的洋葱和红辣椒。然后可以品尝手包的意大利肉饺(13欧元)——一种可口的肉馅饺子,用一种油滑且带有香草气味的酱汁焖制。

11 p.m.

晚上11点

10. NEBBIOLO NEXUS

10. 内比奥罗葡萄酿造的各种葡萄酒


In Piedmont, the region of which Turin is the capital, the noble nebbiolo grape thrives, producing big, bold Barolos and Barbarescos that are among the greatest wines in Italy. To taste what the fuss is all about, splurge on a bottle off the vast wine list at Tre Galli (Via Sant’Agostino, 25; 39-011-521-6027; 3galli.com). Those who prefer white might consider a sparkling Moscato d’Asti, or rare finds from farther afield, like the superb 1996 Bianco Miani (55 euros). With the Black Keys’ latest album on repeat and a cool crowd gathered around the worn wooden tables, this hip wine bar pulls corks late into the night.

在以都灵为首府的皮埃蒙特大区,著名的内比奥罗葡萄(nebbiolo grape)大行其道,生产出大量浓郁的巴罗洛和巴巴莱斯科葡萄酒(Barbaresco),属于意大利最好的葡萄酒。想一尝它到底何以受人追捧,你可以豪饮一回,从Tre Galli(地址:Via Sant’ Agostino, 25;电话:39-011-521-6027;网址:3galli.com)的长长的酒单上挑一瓶。喜欢白葡萄酒的人可以考虑选择莫斯卡托阿斯蒂起泡葡萄酒(Moscato d’Asti),或者选择更远的地方出产的珍稀品种,比如1996年的米亚尼白葡萄酒(Bianco Miani,55欧元)。这家时髦的葡萄酒吧会反复播放黑键乐队(Black Keys)的最新专辑,旧木桌时常聚着热情的客人,一直醉到深夜。

Sunday

星期日

10 a.m.

上午10点

11. ART OF THE AUTO

11. 汽车的艺术


Turin has long been the backbone of Italian car production — the “T” in Fiat stands for Torino, after all. But these days, the pride of the industrial Lingotto district, once home to a huge Fiat factory, is the sleek Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile (Corso Unità d’Italia, 40; 39-011-677-666; museoauto.it), which reopened last year after extensive renovations. A new metro extension to Lingotto that was completed in March 2011 makes a visit to the museum (8 euros) a cinch. And you needn’t be a car buff to be enthralled. By tracing the automobile’s progression from the earliest fin-de-siècle vehicles to futuristic concept cars, the museum is fascinating even if you can’t tell a gasket from a gas cap.

都灵长年以来都是意大利汽车生产的骨干力量——毕竟“Fiat”(菲亚特)中的“T”所代表的就是“Torino”(意大利语中“都灵”的写法)。不过,曾经拥有一家大型菲亚特工厂的工业区灵格托(Lingotto),如今的骄傲是那个光鲜的国家汽车博物馆(Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile,地址:Corso Unità d’Italia, 40;电话:39-011-677-666;网址:museoauto.it),它在大规模修复之后于去年重开。2011年3月完工的一条新地铁线让去往博物馆的路程(8欧元)变得相当便利。而且,你不需要是一个车迷,也会被它迷住。一条去往灵格托的地铁延长线于2011年3月建成,这样参观这个博物馆(8欧元)就非常方便。从最早的“世纪末”(fin-de-siècle)汽车一直到未来主义的概念车,这家博物馆带你追溯汽车的进化史,即使你连垫圈和油箱阀门都分不清楚,这仍然会是一个引人入胜的地方。

Noon

中午

12. EATING ITALY

12. 吃遍意大利


A short stroll away is the enormous gastronomic complex Eataly (Via Nizza, 230/14; 39-011-195-06801; www.eatalytorino.it). Yes, there are other outposts now, including a New York location, but this is the original, and it remains a phenomenal shopping experience for food lovers. When filling your cart, consider what will pass customs — olive oil from Umbria and balsamic vinegar from Modena, sure; rabbit sausage and prosciutto crudo, no. For those, your best bet is to take a seat at one of the specialized ristorantini and order a mixed salumi plate for a final Italian feast.

步行没多远,就会来到大型的美食超市Eataly(地址:Via Nizza, 230/14;电话:39-011-195-06801;网址:www.eatalytorino.it)。是的,它现在确实已经有了其他分店,包括纽约的那家,但这一家是最早的,而且对美食爱好者来说依然是一种非凡的购买体验。在装满你的购物车时,要考虑一下什么东西可以过海关——翁布里亚(Umbria)的橄榄油和摩德纳(Modena)的香醋当然没问题;兔肉香肠和风干火腿可就不行了。想要品尝那些东西,最好的办法还是找一家专营餐厅坐下来,点一份意大利火腿拼盘,最后饱尝一顿意大利盛宴。

IF YOU GO

如果你去的话:


The polished Grand Hotel Sitea (Via Carlo Alberto, 35; 39-011-517-0171; grandhotelsitea.it) has 120 spacious rooms with classical furnishings and white marble baths in a central location near Piazza San Carlo. Rates include a generous continental breakfast buffet; doubles from 158 euros.

光鲜的西泰亚大酒店(Grand Hotel Sitea,地址:Via Carlo Alberto, 35;电话:39-011-517-0171;网址:grandhotelsitea.it)位于圣卡罗广场附近的中心地段,有120个宽敞的房间,内有古典家具和白色大理石浴缸。房费包含丰富的欧式自助早餐;双人房158欧元起。

Town House 70 (Via XX Settembre, 70; 39-011-197-00003; townhouse.it) is part of a small Italian chain of style-conscious boutique hotels. This outpost is in a historic building near Piazza Castello, with 48 modern rooms and suites featuring simple, minimalist décor. Doubles (including breakfast) from 119 euros.

联排别墅70号套房酒店(Town House 70,地址:Via XX Settembre, 70;电话:39-011-197-00003;网址:townhouse.it)是一个注重风格的意大利小型连锁精品酒店品牌的一家分店,位于城堡广场附近的一座历史建筑中,有48间现代风格的房间和套房,装修极致简约。双人房(含早餐)119欧元起。
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