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36小时玩转阿姆斯特丹

36 Hours in Amsterdam
36小时玩转阿姆斯特丹

MOST visitors to Amsterdam rarely wander beyond the arched bridges, watery passageways and crooked canal houses of the enchanting city center. But equally fascinating is the development boom around the harbor and in the once gritty areas that lie between the historic center and the surrounding ring road (A10). These pockets of innovation — pioneered Brooklyn-style by young designers and entrepreneurs who cannot afford the rents on the Keizersgracht — are worth a detour. To explore them, just act like a local: hop on a bike and go.

大多数造访阿姆斯特丹的游客,足迹所至无非是市中心的拱桥、运河和模样趣怪的运河房。这些地方当然漂亮迷人,但同样迷人的是迅速发展的海港一带以及老城区和环城路(A10)之间一度破败的区域。付不起Keizersgracht一带高昂房租的年轻设计师和生意人在这个区域创建了许多布鲁克林风格的前卫社区,创意十足,值得我们专程探访。要想好好地探究它,那就像当地人一样:跳上单车,开始出发。

Friday

星期五

4 p.m.

下午4点

1) DESIGN FRENZY

1) 设计狂欢
 

左起:当地人最喜欢的下午茶地点之一是位于老城区的Gartine餐厅;适合家庭就餐的IJ-Kantine饭店设在室外的餐桌;三名艺术家在Keramiek van Campen商店出售自己的作品。

For more than 25 years, fans of Dutch design have frequented the iconic shop Frozen Fountain for Piet Hein Eek tables and Hella Jongerius vases. But some affordable design shops have recently entered the scene. Store Without a Home (Cabotstraat 1; 31-65-474-3062; storewithoutahome.com) is the eccentric project of an interior designer, Janwillem Sanderse. It started as a communal exhibition space on the harbor but then developed into a roving store that is half gallery, half design shop. Until the end of the month you’ll find it in a corner storefront in De Baarsjes, a multicultural neighborhood southwest of the center, selling everything from outsider art to colorful crocheted stools to ceramic lamps in the shape of potatoes. At the two-year-old Restored (Haarlemmerdijk 39; 31-20-337-6473; restored.nl), you will find fashionable DIY design objects from the Netherlands’ most promising newcomers: quilted lanterns from Maartje van den Noort; sewn bird brooches from Naked Design (nakeddesign.nl) and Red Riding Hood-inspired porcelain cups handcrafted by rENs (madebyrens.nl).

超过25年来,喜欢荷兰设计的人都习惯到“凝固的喷泉(Frozen Fountain)”去寻找皮埃特·海恩·厄克(Piet Hein Eek)设计的桌子和赫拉·荣格里斯(Hella Jongerius)设计的花瓶,这家商店在追随者心中有偶像般的地位。但近年来,一些价格适中的新晋小店也开始进入当地的设计品市场。无家仓库(Store Without a Home; Cabotstraat 1; 31-65-474-3062; storewithoutahome.com)是室内设计师简维勒姆·桑德斯(Janwillem Sanderse)发起的一个项目,风格古怪。刚开始的时候,它是海港区域的一个社区展览厅,后来发展成一家热闹的商店,店面一半是画廊,一半出售设计品。在本月月底之前,你会发现海港西南部的多元文化社区De Baarsjes的一个街角店面正出售各种好玩的东西,包括非专业人士做的艺术品、钩针编成的彩色板凳和土豆形状的陶瓷台灯。在开业已有两年的商店“修复”(Restored; Haarlemmerdijk 39; 31-20-337-6473;restored.nl)里,你会发现荷兰设计新秀们亲手制作的各种时尚物件:马特杰·范·德·努特(Maartje van den Noort)设计的缝制灯笼;“裸体设计”(Naked Design) (nakeddesign.nl) 缝制的飞鸟形胸针;rENs (madebyrens.nl)制作的以小红帽为灵感的陶瓷水杯。

7 p.m.

下午7点

2) EAT YOUR VEGETABLES

2) 享受丰盛果蔬


Take a cozy storefront with an open kitchen in the up-and-coming Westerpark neighborhood, mix in food trends like farm-to-table and supper club dinners and you get Culinaire Werkplaats (Fannius Scholtenstraat 10; 31-65-464-6576; deculinairewerkplaats.nl). Part restaurant and part atelier, it was opened about two years ago by Marjolein Wintjes and Eric Meursing, a former designer and chef. Every few weeks they create a theme that inspires the cooking, like Light or Flowers, then serve a five-course meal that focuses on seasonal vegetables, fruits and grains. A recent meal included Jerusalem artichoke prepared three ways (roasted, whipped and fried), croquettes of black quinoa with ras al hanout and a “deconstructed” apple pie: apple soup with frozen Champagne cubes and a stick of sugared crust. Guests pay what they think is fair.

如果你想在逐渐热门的Westerpark区域找家拥有开放式厨房的舒适的临街店面,并融入“从农场到餐桌”和超级俱乐部餐饮等美食潮流,Culinaire Werkplaats(Fannius Scholtenstraat 10; 31-65-464-6576; deculinairewerkplaats.nl)是个不错的选择。这个半餐馆半工作室的地方由设计师马杰林·温特杰斯(Marjolein Wintjes)和厨师埃里克·莫辛(Eric Meursing)在两年前共同创建。每隔几星期,他们都会推出一个烹饪主题,比如“光芒”或“花朵”,提供以当季蔬菜、水果和谷物做成的包括五道菜的大餐。最近的菜品包括以三种方法(烧烤、打碎做汤和煎制)烹制的耶路撒冷洋蓟、加了阿拉伯混合香料的黑藜麦油炸丸子,以及一种“解构主义”的苹果派:加了香槟冰块的苹果汤和一块加了糖的硬壳面包。没有明确标价,客人可以按照自己的理解看着给。

10 p.m.

晚上10点

3) BACK TO THE ROOTS

3) 追根溯源


Nearby, the Westergasfabriek, a former factory complex full of artists’ studios and cultural venues, is home to Toko MC (Polonceaukade 5; 31-20-475-0425; tokomc.nl), a funky restaurant and music destination connected to the MC theater, both of which celebrate Amsterdam’s rich mix of ethnicities. Pull up a chair at the vibrantly designed bar (coconut wood floors, hand-painted walls and street market-inspired lanterns), order a cocktail made with hand-cranked cane sugar (7 euros, or about $9.80 at $1.40 to the euro) and get ready for late night dancing to a mix of live and D.J.’d world music.

不远处的Westergasfabriek以前是个工厂,现在厂房里到处都是艺术工作室和文化场所。Toko MC(Polonceaukade 5; 31-20-475-0425; tokomc.nl)是个时髦的饭馆,也是与MC剧院有关的音乐圣地——这两个地方都是阿姆斯特丹丰富民族文化的忠实拥趸。在其中设计得充满活力的酒吧(椰木地板,手绘围墙和以集市为灵感的灯笼)拉过一把椅子,点一杯含有手工压榨的甘蔗汁的鸡尾酒(7欧元,约合9.8美元,以1欧元兑换1.4美元计)。做好准备,在深夜时分随着现场演奏或DJ播放的世界音乐酣然起舞。

Saturday

星期六

11 a.m.

上午11点

4) EXPLORE THE NORTH

4) 探索北部地区


North Amsterdam has become an edgy cultural center à la Williamsburg, Brooklyn, in the late ’80s. It scored some major hipster points in 2007 when MTV moved its offices there; in the same warehouse complex is a skate park and a hive of artists’ studios. Architecture and film buffs are anticipating the completion of the spaceship building that will be the new Eye Film Institute. Right off the NDSM ferry stop is the cheerful IJ-Kantine (Mt. Ondinaweg 15-17; 31-20-633-7162; ijkantine.nl), a cantina where parents tank up on caffeine while their children tackle one another in the play corner of the soaring light-filled dining room. A five-minute walk away is the Noorderlicht (NDSM wharf, T.T. Neveritaweg 33; 31-20-492-2770); noorderlichtcafe.nl), a sort of transparent hanger, where a five-year-old cafe shelters an arty crowd who sit on mismatched chairs at driftwood tables. In summer, everyone sits outside, turning the industrial lots into partylike spaces.

20世纪80年代后期,北阿姆斯特丹开始变成一个类似布鲁克林威廉斯堡的前卫文化中心。2007年MTV将办公室搬到这个区域的决策更为此地的潮流指数加了不少分。MTV所在的仓库建筑里还有一家滑板公园和许多艺术家工作室。建筑和电影艺术的粉丝们正热烈期盼着一座宇宙飞船形状的建筑的竣工——那座建筑将成为“眼睛电影学院(Eye Film Institute)”的新址。NDSM渡船站旁边是让人愉快的IJ-Kantine饭店(Mt. Ondinaweg 15-17; 31-20-633-7162; ijkantine.nl)。在屋檐高挑、光线充足的饭店里,孩子们在角落的游乐区域互相扭打,他们的父母在旁边补充大量的咖啡因。从这里走路五分钟就是Noorderlicht(NDSM码头, T.T. Neveritaweg 33; 31-20-492-2770; noorderlichtcafe.nl)小餐馆。这家开业五年的餐馆坐落在一座几乎透明的圆拱形建筑内,附庸风雅的顾客坐在与浮木做成的餐桌不太搭调的椅子上。夏天,人们都坐在室外,把这个曾经的工业区变成了欢宴之地。

1 p.m.

下午1点

5) A BOOM ON OVERTOOM

5) OVERTOOM大街的繁荣


The area close to where Overtoom street hits Nassaukade is quickly becoming a compelling alternative to P.C. Hooftstraat, Amsterdam’s designer-shop avenue. Over the last two or three years there’s been a boomlet of independent shops along its edges. One of the most inspiring is Friday Next (Overtoom 31; 31-20-612-3292; fridaynext.com), a sprawling concept store built around the owners’ interior design atelier. While you decide whether you can fit that wooden Muuto lamp into your luggage, grab a coffee at the store’s cafe, which features ingredients found next door at Marqt (Overtoom 21-25; 31-20-422-6311; marqt.com), an organic supermarket with products from small local producers.

继汇聚名牌服装店的P.C. Hooftstraat大街之后,Overtoom和Nassaukade两条大街的交叉口正迅速变成一个诱人的新选择。在过去的两三年里,这个区域出现了独立设计商店的小规模勃兴。最吸引人的店铺之一是“下周五”(Friday Next; Overtoom 31; 31-20-612-3292; fridaynext.com),这个规模庞大的概念店以店主的室内设计工作室为中心。你可以在店内的咖啡馆边喝咖啡,边琢磨那个Muuto牌的木制台灯能否塞进你的行李箱。这个咖啡馆的食材都来自隔壁的有机食品超市Marqt (Overtoom 21-25; 31-20-422-6311; marqt.com),里面的产品都来自当地的小厂家。

3 p.m.

下午3点

6) HIGH TEA

6) 下午茶


The Dutch, even the younger generation, still like to take time out on weekend afternoons to practice the art of high tea. The latest insider favorite is the spread (starting at 10.95 euros) at Gartine (Taksteeg 7; 31-20-320-4132; gartine.nl), a cozy cafe in the historic center. Another good option is the Amsterdam South branch of De Bakkerswinkel (Roelof Hartstraat 68; 31-20-662-3594; debakkerswinkel.nl), a chain of bakeries with a homey atmosphere. At this outpost, manicured locals curl up on chairs and savor scones served with clotted cream (1.40 euros).

荷兰人至今仍喜欢在周末下午出门研习下午茶艺术,年轻一代也不例外。内行人士近期的最爱是老城区舒适的小餐馆Gartine (Taksteeg 7; 31-20-320-4132; gartine.nl)供应的茶点(10.95欧元起)。另一个不错的选择是De Bakkerswinkel 面包房(Roelof Hartstraat 68; 31-20-662-3594; debakkerswinkel.nl)在南阿姆斯特丹的分店。De Bakkerswinkel是个连锁烘焙品牌,气氛家常而亲切。在这家分店里,装扮整洁的本地人蜷在椅子里,享受着搭配了奶油块的斯康饼(1.40欧元)。

5 p.m.

下午5点

7) NEW DUTCH CERAMICS

7) 新荷兰陶瓷艺术


For contemporary handmade ceramics, head to the source: two workshops of several talented designers, both in the lively, bohemian De Pijp neighborhood. There are Hilde Tempelman’s UFO and guitar-painted plates at Atelier Tempel (Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 20; 31-20-470-0106; ateliertempel.nl/pottery; by appointment), while three artists work and sell their pieces at nearby Keramiek van Campen (Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 38; 31-62-913-0883; keramiekvancampen.nl).

想看当代手工陶瓷的话,请到这种艺术的源头——几名极有天赋的设计师在充满活力的、具有波西米亚风格的De Pijp社区创立的两家工作室。Atelier Tempel工作室(Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 20; 31-20-470-0106; ateliertempel.nl/pottery; 需提前预约)有设计师希尔德·坦普尔曼(Hilde Tempelman)制作的画着飞碟和吉他图案的盘子。在不远处的Keramiek van Campen工作室(Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 38; 31-62-913-0883; keramiekvancampen.nl)里,三位艺术家现场制作并销售自己的作品。

8 p.m.

晚上8点

8) IN THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT

8) 红灯区


Last summer, the ambitious chef Rogier van Dam and his sommelier girlfriend opened the very respectable Restaurant Lastage (Geldersekade 29; 31-20-737-0811; restaurantlastage.nl) in the midst of sex shops. Mr. van Dam attempts to surprise his guests not only with the location but also with his chef’s menu (36 euros for three courses), which offers an elegant twist to Dutch cuisine.

去年夏天,雄心勃勃的厨师罗杰尔·范·戴姆(Rogier van Dam)和他做酒侍的女朋友在成群的性用品商店之间开设了很受尊重的Restaurant Lastage饭馆(Geldersekade 29; 31-20-737-0811; restaurantlastage.nl)。范·戴姆先生希望让顾客惊讶的不仅是饭店奇特的位置,还有他的大厨精选菜单(三道菜的套餐36欧元),这些菜在荷兰烹饪基础上做了些优雅的改良。

11 p.m.

晚上11点

9) STOP THE PRESSES

9) 停止印刷


There’s still news coming from Trouw (Wibautstraat 127; 31-20-463-7788; trouwamsterdam.nl), a temporary restaurant and club in a former newspaper printing warehouse in East Amsterdam, but these days the news has more to do with cocktails, cuisine and art. The space is now a sleek backdrop for a young crowd who read their news on iPads. On summer evenings, the terrace is packed with late-night revelers.

Trouw(Wibautstraat 127; 31-20-463-7788; trouwamsterdam.nl)是一家临时性的餐馆兼俱乐部,位于东阿姆斯特丹,它所在的建筑以前是一家报社的印刷仓库。现在,这里仍然会传出的新闻,不过主要跟鸡尾酒、美食和艺术有关。现在年轻人在这个时髦的地方读自己iPad上的新闻。夏天的夜晚,阳台上总是挤满了在深夜饮酒狂欢的顾客。

Sunday

星期日

Noon

中午

10) THE EXOTIC EAST

10) 充满异国风情的东部


In the last two years the Indische Buurt district in East Amsterdam has drawn young designers, artists and families looking for affordable housing in an area that has been home to squatters and a mix of immigrant families. Last year the chefs Jaymz Pool, Faysel van Thiel and Frenk van Dinther opened Wilde Zwijnen (Javaplein 23; 31-20-463-3043; wildezwijnen.com). The name means wild boar and it hints at the kitchen’s preference for seasonal products. Lunch could include roast pig with clams (9 euros) and, for dessert, crème brûlée with Earl Grey and blueberry sorbet (7 euros). This is a good starting place for exploring the neighborhood’s main boulevard, Javastraat. Lined with shiny Mediterranean-style tiles, Turkish grocers and coffee shops, it resembles a street in Istanbul.

东阿姆斯特丹的Indische Buurt区以前是非法居住者和移民家庭的聚居地,但在过去的两年中,这个地方吸引了大量寻找可以租得起的房子的年轻设计师、艺术家和家庭。去年,詹姆兹·普尔(Jaymz Pool),费塞尔·范·西尔(Faysel van Thiel)和弗兰克·范·迪瑟(Frenk van Dinther)等三位大厨合伙创建了Wilde Zwijnen饭店 (Javaplein 23; 31-20-463-3043; wildezwijnen.com)。店名的意思是“野猪”,暗指饭店的厨房喜欢当季的新鲜食材。午餐可能是搭配了蛤蜊的烤猪肉(9欧元),甜品则有加了伯爵红茶和蓝莓冰沙的法式焦糖蛋奶冻(7欧元)。这家饭店也是探索Indische Buurt社区主干道 Javastraat大街的良好起点。Javastraat大街两侧分布着闪亮的地中海式屋顶、土耳其式杂货店和咖啡馆,看起来仿佛置身伊斯坦布尔。

1 p.m.

下午1点

11) TROPICAL MUSEUM

11) 热带博物馆


Even if you don’t have the slightest interest in Holland’s former colonies, which include Indonesia and Suriname, the Tropical Museum (Linnaeusstraat 2; 31-20-568-8200; tropenmuseum.nl) is worth a visit. The architecture alone — a towering and grand early 20th-century building that wraps around an entire city block — is impressive. And its gilded interiors, especially its library, hide many romantic nooks where you can read up on your next exotic adventure. Until May 8 a splashy exhibition called “Red” showcases about 300 objects that illustrate the importance of the color red in various cultures.

即使你对印度尼西亚、苏里南等荷兰前殖民地没有任何兴趣,热带博物馆(Linnaeusstraat 2; 31-20-568-8200; tropenmuseum.nl)也值得你特意探访。光是博物馆的建筑就让人印象深刻。一座高大庄严的20世纪早期建筑,围绕在一大片城区的四周。博物馆镀金的内墙环抱着许多隐秘而浪漫的去处,尤其是图书馆部分——在那里你可以就自己的下次异国探险进行深入的阅读。在5月8日之前,这里会有一个叫做“红”的大型展览,大约300件展品讲述了这个颜色在不同文化中的重要意义。

IF YOU GO

酒店信息


The big hotel news of the moment is that the five-star grand Hotel De L’Europe (Nieuwe Dolenstraat 2-14; 31-20-531-1777; leurope.nl; rates from 339 to 3,000 euros) will officially reopen in May after a much needed renovation. It includes a wing of suites inspired by the Dutch masters in the Rijksmuseum, a complete redo of the main 19th-century building and a new dining concept overseen by the chef Richard van Oostenbrugge.

目前酒店方面的重大新闻是,五星级的欧洲酒店Hotel De L’Europe(Nieuwe Dolenstraat 2-14; 31-20-531-1777; leurope.nl; 房价339至3000欧元)经过一次极有必要的翻修之后,将在5月份正式重新营业。酒店增加了一个侧翼,里面的套房的灵感来源于荷兰设计大师设计的荷兰国家博物馆(Rijksmuseum);建于19世纪的主楼进行了彻底的翻修;还新开了一家概念餐厅,由名厨理查德·范·乌丝坦卜鲁格(Richard van Oostenbrugge)打理。

If you want the comforts of home in the heart of Amsterdam’s famous shopping area, the Nine Streets, book one of the four elegant contemporary spaces at Miauw Suites (Hartenstraat 36; 31-20-893-2933; miauw.com; rates from 145 to 245 euros), which is owned by a couple with backgrounds in fashion design and filmmaking.

如果你想在阿姆斯特丹著名的购物区“九条大街”(Nine Streets)享受居家的舒适感觉,那么可以预约Miauw Suites概念酒店(Hartenstraat 36; 31-20-893-2933; miauw.com; 房价145至245欧元)的一个套房,套房很有现代感,总共只有四套。这家酒店的老板是一对夫妇,拥有时尚设计和电影制作方面的背景。
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