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无酒精“清吧”:正在全球各地窜红起來

The rise of the sober bar
无酒精“清吧”:正在全球各地窜红起來

When you walk into Getaway, a stylish bar off a main avenue in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, you could be in any number of Instagram-friendly cocktail spots in New York. The walls are tasteful green and blue, the space feels cosy enough that you could easily join a neighbouring conversation, and the menu features a list of $13 (£10) cocktails with ingredients like tobacco syrup, lingonberry and jalapeno puree, with a friendly note from the owners that laptops are not allowed.

“逃离”(Getaway)是位于布鲁克林绿点区主干道旁的一家酒吧。在这家别具一格的酒吧里,你可以尝遍纽约的网红鸡尾酒。酒吧的墙是高雅的蓝绿色,环境温馨舒适,让人能够卸除心防与身边人轻松闲聊。菜单上列出了一系列13美元(约10法郎)的鸡尾酒,配方材料包括烟草糖浆、越橘和墨西哥胡椒酱。还有店主的善意提醒:本店不可使用笔记本电脑。

But there is a crucial difference between Getaway and other Brooklyn bars: Getaway is totally alcohol-free.

然而,跟布鲁克林的其他酒吧不同的是,“逃离”酒吧里的饮品都不含酒精。这类不提供酒精饮料的酒吧,也被称之为清吧(sober bar)。

A bar without booze sounds like an oxymoron, like an aquarium without fish or a bakery that doesn’t serve bread. But in cities like New York and London, where bars often function as second living rooms for apartment dwellers with little space, an alcohol-free nightlife option can appeal to people who, for whatever reason, would prefer not to drink.

酒吧居然没有酒,听起来似乎有些匪夷所思,就好像说水族馆里没有鱼或面包店里没有面包。但在像纽约、伦敦这样的城市,屋小如舟的公寓住户已经将酒吧当成自家的第二个客厅了,所以滴酒不沾的夜生活可能会吸引那些出于某种原因不愿意喝酒的人。
Sam Thonis, who co-owns the bar with Regina Dellea, got the idea for Getaway three years ago, when he and his brother, who doesn’t drink, were trying to find a place to go out together at night. “There weren’t many nightlife options in New York that didn’t revolve around alcohol or weren’t trying to push that on you in some way,” Thonis says. “The more I talked to people, some of whom are sober and some of whom aren’t, the more I felt that people wanted that kind of space.”

索尼斯(Sam Thonis)和德尔丽(Regina Dellea)是“逃离”的老板。三年前,索尼斯萌生了开酒吧的想法,因为当时他和他的兄弟晚上想找个地方消遣,而他的兄弟不喝酒。“在纽约,你要是不想喝酒,晚上就没什么地方好去了。我跟很多人聊过天,他们之中有些是清醒的有些喝醉了,我越发觉得人们需要一个没有酒精的环境。”

In response, Thonis and Dellea made their bar a studiously 0% alcohol space, meaning that not even non-alcoholic beers that have a trace amount of alcohol are allowed on the menu. In the US, the term ‘non-alcoholic’ may be applied to beverages with 0.5% alcohol by volume or less, which means many popular non-alcoholic beers aren’t actually alcohol-free.

为了满足人们的需求,索尼斯和德尔丽有意将自己酒吧打造成无酒清吧,也就是说连含有微量酒精的非酒精啤酒都不卖。在美国,酒精量少于0.5%的饮料酒水都可以打上无酒精的标签,所以其实很多号称无酒精的啤酒并不是完全没有酒精。

“It’s 0% as much as humanly possible, so if you’re sober and it’s an issue for you, or you don’t even want the smell of alcohol around you, you’ll be safe,” Thonis says. But it still looks and feels like a bar - it only opens in the evenings, the lights are low and no one appears to be working on their screenplay.

索尼斯说:“我们尽最大努力打造百分百的无酒环境,如果你不想喝醉,就尽管来这吧,或者不想闻到酒味儿,也大可放心。”但整个环境看起来还是跟酒吧一样,灯光昏暗,没有人敲电脑,并且只在晚上开业。

Getaway, which opened in April, is part of a growing global wave of nightspots that specifically cater to people who are avoiding alcohol, but still want to go out and socialise in spaces that have traditionally been dominated by drinking. There’s Vena’s Fizz House in Portland, Maine and The Other Side in Crystal Lake, a suburb of Illinois. In London, alcohol-free Redemption bar now has three locations, as well as a menu of vegan, sugar-free, wheat-free food. In January, The Virgin Mary, an alcohol-free pub, opened in Dublin.

今年四月份开业的“逃离”满足了那些不想喝酒又想去酒吧社交者的需求,这实际是全球一种新的潮流。在美国缅因州的波特兰,人们可以去无酒的“维纳的气泡屋”,在伊利诺伊州芝加哥郊区的水晶湖,可以去“在水一方”清吧。伦敦一家名为“救赎”的无酒酒吧现在已经开了三家店,除了无酒精饮料,他们还提供素食及无糖无小麦的食物。今年一月,一家名为“圣母玛利亚”的清吧于都柏林开业。

Temperance zones

禁欲空间


Alcohol-free bars aren’t a new concept. In the late 19th Century, a number of alcohol-free bars known as temperance bars were established in the UK on the heels of the temperance movement, which advocated abstinence. Fitzpatrick’s Temperance Bar, founded in 1890 in Rawtenstall, north of Manchester, is still slinging root beer and glasses of dandelion and burdock today.

不提供酒的酒吧并不是什么新鲜玩意儿。19世纪晚期,倡导节欲的戒酒运动兴起,英国随之涌现了一大批无酒供应的酒吧,又称之为节欲吧。1890年在曼彻斯特北部的劳滕斯托尔(Rawtenstall)开业的菲茨帕特里克禁酒酒吧(Fitzpatrick's Temperance Bar)如今仍在出售沙士、蒲公英牛蒡饮料。

But what’s different about today’s wave of alcohol-free bars is that they aren’t necessarily rooted in the idea of total abstinence. At Getaway, for example, the audience isn’t just non-drinkers but anyone who wants a fun bar environment without the threat of a hangover the next day. “Nothing about our space says you should be sober, or you shouldn’t go around the corner to another bar and do a tequila shot after hanging out here,” Thonis said. “It’s not exclusively for the non-drinker.”

但今天这股无酒酒吧潮流的根源并不是为了禁欲。比如来“逃离”的客人并不都是滴酒不沾的人,而是任何既想要酒吧的氛围,又不想到次日还酒醉不醒的人。索尼斯说:“我们的酒吧从来不会劝客人别喝酒,并不是只对不喝酒的人开放。”

In that way, Getaway touches on a movement that has urban millennials reconsidering the place of alcohol in their lives. Lorelei Bandrovschi , 32, falls into that category. Last year, she began organising alcohol-free pop-up events under the name Listen Bar for people who wanted to cut loose without alcohol playing a part. She used to work as a consultant for brands like YouTube and the Museum of Modern Art in New York, but working on Listen Bar is her full-time occupation now.

“逃离”的这种做法让生活在都市的千禧一代开始重新思考酒精在生活中的位置。32岁的班德罗夫斯基(Lorelei Bandrovschi)便是其中一员。去年,她开始为那些想放松又不想喝酒的人组织名为“倾听吧”的无酒精活动。罗雷莱曾经是YouTube和纽约现代艺术博物馆等品牌的顾问,但现在她全职在“倾听吧”工作。

“Bars are a space of relaxation, and we’ve been made to believe that alcohol has to be a part of that,” Bandrovschi says. “It’s really liberating to create space for yourself and your life where a rowdy party vibe doesn’t mean a hangover and blurry memories.” The word ‘rowdy’ is a key part of what Bandrovschi is going for with these events. “There’ve been moments at our first Williamsburg pop-ups where people are dancing on tables and karaoke-ing their hearts out,” she says. “Being good to yourself doesn’t mean only being zen and subdued.”

她说:“酒吧是供人放松消遣的场所,人们总觉得来酒吧就必须要喝酒。我们需要的是一个完全释放自我的空间,并不是只有酩酊大醉和记忆断片才说明是一个热闹的派对。”热闹是她组织的这些活动所追求的。“我们第一次活动是在威廉斯堡,当时人们玩得很开心,在桌子上载歌载舞。所以,好好生活并不是非要信佛禁欲。”

Bandrovschi isn’t sober herself, but after taking a month off drinking she noted a lack of options for people who wanted to go out with their friends without being stuck ordering a soda while everyone else is getting thoughtfully curated mixed drinks. “I think that bar culture, from the menu to the staff to the patrons, tends to make not drinking sort of an outsiders’ hobby,” she says.

班德罗夫斯基自己并非滴酒不沾之人,但在戒酒一个月后,她发现,有些人想和朋友出去玩,但又不想在别人都在喝精心调制的鸡尾酒时只点一杯苏打水。他们没有什么选择。她说:“酒吧文化中的每一环,包括菜单、员工和顾客,似乎都将不喝酒的人视为局外人。”

“I refer to my personal philosophy as drink optional. In order to get to a drink optional culture as opposed to the current drink-by-default culture, we have to celebrate the choice of not drinking. It should have as much space as drinking, spaces that are cool and fun and desirable spaces to go. I wanted to create something that was missing from culture, and I really wanted to change culture.”

“我的个人哲学是‘喝酒是一种选择’。我们必须改变现在这种‘必须喝酒’不容选择的文化,所以当有人选择不喝酒时,我们要给予鼓励。不喝酒的人应该和喝酒的人享受同样的待遇,能在有趣酷炫空间里放松自己。我要做的就是弥补这块文化上的空缺,我真的很想改变文化。”

Sobering up?

想清醒一下?


This “drink optional” attitude may not yet be the default, but there are indicators that young people aren’t drinking as much as they used to. In 2016, among adults over the age of 16 polled by the British Office of Nationals Statistics, just 56.9% had had a drink in the week before, the lowest percentage on record since the office began asking the question in 2005. In February, the International Wine and Spirits Record claimed that 52% of American adults they surveyed were currently trying to or had previously tried to reduce their alcohol intake.

虽然现在“酒精不是必需品”这种观念还未被世人普遍接受,但是有迹象表明,年轻人没以前那么爱喝酒了。2016年,英国国家统计局的数据显示,16岁以上的成年人中仅56.9%在此前一周喝过酒,此比例是自2005年开始调查以来的最低点。今年二月,国际葡萄酒和烈酒档案表明,接受调查的美国成年人中,52%的人目前在尝试减少酒精摄入。

A series of articles on recent trends indicates that millennials are reconsidering when and how they drink.  Beer sales are in decline in the US and, though that may mean that more health-conscious consumers are just turning towards higher-octane spirits, the alcohol industry has responded to the slump by introducing more low- and no-alcohol options, like Heineken’s 0.0 non-alcoholic beer that launched in 2017 or Gordon’s ultra-low-alcohol canned gin and tonic.

一系列有关潮流的文章表明千禧一代现在都在思考喝酒的方式和地点。美国的啤酒销量在下降,但也可能是因为一些注重健康的人改而选择喝高浓度的烈酒。面对这种变化,酒业推出了更多低酒精或无酒精饮品,比如说喜力2017年推出的无酒精啤酒和哥顿的超低酒精的杜松子酒和奎宁水。

Non-alcoholic drinks are poised to be big business, even in spaces that aren’t alcohol-free. Increasingly, high-end restaurants are including a non-alcoholic pairing for their tasting menus as well as a traditional wine or cocktail pairing. And mixologists and beverage directors are taking the trends as an opportunity to create interesting drinks without the traditional ballast of spirits.

即使是在喝酒的场所,不含酒精的饮料也能成为一笔大买卖。除了传统的红酒和鸡尾酒套餐,越来越多高级餐厅选择在品鉴菜单里加入不含酒精的套餐。调酒师和饮品总监正在紧跟趋势,在不加入传统烈酒的前提下,打造更多有意思的饮品。

Chelsea Carrier, the beverage director of o ya, Covina and The Roof Top in New York, worked with her team to create a non-alcoholic pairing for the food at o ya, a Japanese restaurant. “So many guests were asking for NA options, and they didn’t want to just drink water,” Carrier says. Now, she estimates NA drinks are about 20% of the drinks ordered at the restaurant and that the thoughtfulness of the non-alcoholic cocktails makes customers who aren’t drinking alcohol feel included. “You can be sitting next to someone drinking a couple-of-thousand-dollar bottle of wine and be drinking a non-alcoholic cocktail and belong just as much,” she says.

卡里尔(Chelsea Carrier)是纽约“小谷”(Oya)、科维纳(Covina)和屋顶(The Roof Top)等餐厅的饮品总监。卡里尔在小谷这家日本餐厅,正在和团队一起调制一款能搭配餐厅食物的无酒精饮品。卡里尔说:“很多客人想喝无酒精饮料,而不是光喝白开水。”据她估计,现在餐厅下单的饮品中,约20%是无酒精饮品,而且无酒精鸡尾酒能让那些不喝酒的顾客觉得自己没有遭到忽视。她说:“或许坐你旁边的人正喝着几千美元的葡萄酒,而你在喝不含酒精的鸡尾酒,但即便如此,你也一样有被视为上宾的感受。"

Drink the bar dry

把酒吧喝干


At Existing Conditions, a bar in New York’s Greenwich Village which is known for its wildly inventive cocktails, like a take on an Old-Fashioned that includes waffle-infused bourbon and maple syrup, non-alcoholic cocktails are prominent on the menu and, according to beverage director Bobby Murphy, are some of the most expensive items they make, both in terms of ingredients and labour.

纽约格林威治区一家叫做“现状”(Existing Conditions)的酒吧以其标新立异的鸡尾酒而闻名。据饮品总监墨菲(Bobby Murphy)说,就如一款加入了波旁威士忌和枫糖浆的老式鸡尾酒的饮品,酒吧的菜单上无酒精的鸡尾酒也很显著,有的款式不管是原料还是人工都是饮品中最贵的。

One drink, the Stingless, requires Melipona honey, made by tiny bees in Mexico that can cost $100 for a kilo. Another non-alcoholic drink is built around clarified Comice pear juice, an ingredient that meant the Existing Conditions team had to purchase and juice 980 pounds of in-season pears - each drink has about six pears in it.  “Just serving a soda isn’t enough anymore,” Murphy says. “When we make the non-alcoholic drinks, we want them to be something you can’t get anywhere else.” He estimates that 20-30% of the total drinks they sell at Existing Conditions are non-alcoholic.

一款叫做“丝汀丽丝”(Stingless)的饮品用无刺蜂蜂蜜制成。这种蜂蜜由墨西哥的小蜜蜂酿造,每升售价100美元。另一款非酒精饮品是用透明的考密斯梨汁制成。要做这种梨汁,现状酒吧必须采购980磅的应季梨子,每一杯饮品要用到六个梨子。墨菲说:“只提供苏打水是远远不够的。我希望我们的无酒精饮料不是随随便便到处都能买到的。”据他估计,现状酒吧20%到30%的饮品为非酒精饮品。

Many of the wave of sober bars are new, and it remains to be seen whether they will continue to proliferate and thrive. In Auckland in 2015, an alcohol-free bar shut down after just five weeks. But there’s no doubt that interest in non-alcoholic adult beverages is increasing across the beverage industry, and that’s unlikely to stop soon.

这股清吧潮流才刚刚兴起,许多清吧才刚开张不久,是否能维持和蓬勃发展还有待观察。2015年,奥克兰一家无酒清吧在开业五周后就关门了。但毫无疑问的是整个饮料行业对不含酒精的成人饮料越来越感兴趣,而且这种趋势不太可能会戛然而止。

As for Getaway, co-owners Sam Thonis and Regina Dellea look at it as an option in a city full of specific venues catering to specific interests. Business has been steady in the last month. “Every day I worry that no one’s going to come in, and 20 minutes later it’s bustling,” Dellea says. Their customers have included curious locals, pregnant women and the studiously sober, but Dellea and Thonis hope that the appeal of the bar is wide. “It can be for everyone, but it doesn’t have to be,” Thonis says. “There are a million options. If people don’t like us that’s fine. They’re allowed. For the people who do want to be here, we’re here.”

至于“逃离”清吧的发展前途,合伙人索尼斯和德尔丽认为,在这样一个到处都是特定娱乐场所的城市里,逃离也是一种选择。上个月生意一直很稳定。德尔丽说:“我每天都担心没客人,但基本开业20分钟后就人满为患了。”他们的顾客中有好奇的当地人、孕妇和想要保持清醒不醉的人,但德尔丽和索尼斯希望酒吧能吸引范围更广泛的顾客。索尼斯说:“我们欢迎所有人光顾,但我们不必面面俱到。选择是无尽的,如果不喜欢来我们清吧这也没关系。对于那些想光顾的人,我们随时恭候。”
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