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东京奥运会上的“金牌”造型

Gold Medals in Style From the 2020 Tokyo Olympics
东京奥运会上的“金牌”造型

The 2020 Olympics in Tokyo have been among the strangest in memory. Delayed by a year, and unloved and underway in a host city that didn’t want them, the Games have still provided a bevy of brilliant sporting stories, including bold debuts and smashed records, underdog triumphs and superstar broken hearts.

2020年东京奥运会是记忆中最奇怪的一届奥运会之一。虽然推迟了一年,面临众多民众的反对,在一个并不想主办它的城市举行,但它还是提供了一大堆精彩的体育新闻,包括大胆的首次亮相和打破纪录,以弱胜强和超级明星的心碎。

They were also big on style. Wild tattoos and unisex team uniforms, kaleidoscopic hairdos and hand-knit cardigans: Tokyo has had it all. Here are some of the highlights.

在时尚方面,也有很多可以说道的。狂野的纹身、不分性别的队服、千变万化的发型和手工编织的羊毛衫:这些都出现在了东京。以下是其中一些亮点。
 

在开幕式上,米西亚穿着小泉智贵设计的彩虹色礼服,演唱日本国歌。

Cupcake Couture by Tomo Koizumi at the Opening Ceremony

开幕式上小泉智贵设计的纸杯蛋糕裙


Tomo Koizumi gained international recognition after finding a fan in Lady Gaga, who wore his designs, and a breakout New York Fashion Week debut in 2019 masterminded by the stylist Katie Grand. Known for his frothy candy-colored organza ball gowns, the Japanese designer made headlines once again when he dressed the singer Misia for the Olympic opening ceremony.

小泉智贵(Tomo Koizumi)有了Lady Gaga这个粉丝后获得了国际认可;2019年登陆纽约时装周,由造型师凯蒂·格兰德(Katie Grand)一手引荐,结果一炮而红。这位日本设计师以糖果色透明硬纱晚礼服而闻名,歌手米西亚(Misia)穿着他设计的礼服在奥运会开幕式上表演,使他再次登上新闻头条。

As she sang the Japanese national anthem, Misia wore a vibrant rainbow-hued dress with puffed sleeves and dense white layers of recycled organza that cascaded toward the hem in cloudlike waves of spray-painted pink, orange, yellow and green. Forget the flame; for a moment, the creation of a self-taught, homegrown fashion talent lit up a near-empty stadium.

演唱日本国歌时,米西亚穿了一件充满活力的彩虹色长裙,蓬蓬袖,厚厚的可回收白色透明硬纱层层叠叠,倾泻而下,渐变为粉色、橙色、黄色和绿色,似云朵般的波浪。忘掉圣火吧,在某一刻,一个自学成才的本土时尚天才,用创意照亮了一个几乎空无一人的体育场。

Telfar’s One-Shouldered Unisex Uniforms for Liberia

特尔法为利比里亚队设计的单肩中性队服


This year the most fashion-forward team uniforms weren’t on athletes from countries with fashion capitals, like the United States, Italy and France. Instead, it was Liberia that proved willing to take a leap of faith.

今年,最锐意进取的队服不是穿在来自美国、意大利和法国等拥有时尚之都国家的运动员身上。事实证明,愿意冒险一搏的是利比里亚。

Liberia’s three athletes wore unisex unitards and silk mesh basketball tunics, one-shouldered tank tops and loosefitting tracksuits in shades of blue, red and white sprinkled with stars in a nod to the colors and symbol of the Liberian flag. They were the brainchild of the Liberian-American fashion designer Telfar Clemens, who is based in New York. Liberia may not have won a medal in Tokyo, but it went for gold when it came to the style stakes.

利比里亚的三名运动员穿着不分性别的连体服和丝绸网眼篮球衫,单肩背心和宽松的蓝红白运动服,点缀以星星,这是对利比里亚的国旗和标识致敬。它们是现居纽约的利比里亚裔美国时装设计师特尔法·克莱门斯(Telfar Clemens)的创意。利比里亚在东京没有赢得奖牌,在时尚方面却是直奔金牌而去。

AirPods Everywhere (But Especially on Skaters)

AirPods无处不在(特别是在滑板运动员身上)


Medals and Olympic ring tattoos weren’t the only ubiquitous accessory this year: AirPods were everywhere. In particular, they were in force at the skatepark, where dozens of athletes sailed through the air with beats from their buds blasting into their ears (and in some cases, the iPhones in their back pockets). The American skater Jagger Eaton even stopped to search for an AirPod he’d lost during a trick, before going on to win a bronze medal in the men’s street event.

奖牌和奥运五环纹身并不是今年唯一的常见配饰:AirPods也无处不在。滑板场上,它们尤为常见,数十名运动员在空中飞跃,耳机里是震耳欲聋的节拍(有时候,iPhone就放在后兜里)。美国滑板选手贾格尔·伊顿(Jagger Eaton)在赢得男子街头滑板项目铜牌之前甚至停下来寻找表演时丢失的一个AirPod。

Indeed, skateboarding, which made its official Olympics debut in Tokyo, brought with it new ideas on what it means to dress to perform as athletes, including the 13-year-old British bronze medalist Sky Brown in her pinstripe pants; Kokona Hiraki of Japan in a white Nike boiler suit; and the Finnish skateboarder Lizzie Armanto, who designed her own uniforms.

的确,在东京奥运会上首次正式亮相的滑板项目,给运动员的表演着装带来了新的思路,包括13岁的英国铜牌得主斯凯·布朗(Sky Brown),她比赛时穿着细条纹裤子;日本选手开心那(Kokona Hiraki)穿着白色耐克连身衣;芬兰滑板选手莉齐·阿曼托(Lizzie Armanto)穿的是她自己设计的衣服。

The Brouhaha Over the German Gymnasts’ Unitards

德国体操运动员的紧身衣风波


Female gymnasts competing at the Olympics have worn bikini-cut leotards for decades. But in the early qualifying rounds in Tokyo, the German women’s gymnastics team took to the mat in mid-sleeve, long-legged unitards. They were worn, the team said, in a stand against “sexualization” in the sport.

参加奥运会的女子体操运动员几十年来一直穿着比基尼式紧身衣。但在东京预赛的早期阶段,德国女子体操队穿着中袖长腿紧身衣上了垫子。她们说,此举是为了反对这项运动中的“性化”。

The subsequent controversy sparked major debate — on culture, on rule makers, on who gets to say what female athletes wear. The German team may not have progressed beyond the early rounds in Tokyo, but its choice of clothing left a lingering reminder of the latent objectification still faced by some female athletes.

随后的争议引发了激烈的辩论——关于文化,关于规则制定者,关于谁有权决定女运动员穿什么。在东京奥运会,德国队没有走太远,但它对服装的选择让人不由地想到,一些女性运动员仍然面临潜在的物化。

Nor were the German athletes the only ones making statements with what they wore. Three members of the United States men’s fencing team wore pink masks to protest the presence of a teammate accused of sexual misconduct.

德国运动员不是唯一用衣着来表明立场的人。美国男子击剑队的三名队员戴上了粉色口罩,抗议与一名被控性行为不端的队友同场。

The Winning Hair and Nail Choices

胜出的发型和美甲之选


From Naomi Osaka’s scarlet braids and the hurdler Christina Clemons’s butterfly clips, to the sprinter Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce’s two-tone neon ponytail and the weight lifter Emily Jade Campbell’s half and half colored space buns, Tokyo has been awash with unapologetic and individualistic hair styles. In part, this is a reflection of modern athletes’ mind-sets and determination to be themselves. And for some Olympians, bold hair, acrylic nails and jewelry are a celebration of Black female prowess on a high-profile global platform.

从大坂直美(Naomi Osaka)的红色辫子、跨栏运动员克里斯蒂娜·克莱蒙斯(Christina Clemons)的蝴蝶发夹,到短跑运动员雪莉—安·弗雷泽-普莱斯(Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce)的双色霓虹马尾辫;以及举重运动员艾米丽·杰德·坎贝尔(Emily Jade Campbell)头顶一边一个彩色发髻,东京奥运会上充斥着大胆的个性发型。在某种程度上,这反映了现代运动员的心态和做自己的决心。对于一些奥运选手来说,大胆的发型、指甲造型和珠宝,是在一个高调的全球平台上庆祝黑人女性实力的方式。

The British track star Dina Asher-Smith’s highbrow manicure by the nail artist Emily Gilmour featured a recreation of the Japanese Hokusai artwork “The Great Wave Off Kanagawa.” The Swiss tennis player Belinda Bencic, the French shooter Mélanie Couzy and the Hong Kong swimmer Camille Cheng all wore patriotic tips. And at least one athlete offered a performance-focused slant for her look. Sunisa Lee, who won the all-around gymnastics gold for the United States, said that her long, square-shaped Olympic rings acrylics (courtesy of Little Luxuries Nail Lounge in Minneapolis) brought her “good luck” and helped her compete.

英国田径明星迪娜·阿舍-史密斯(Dina Asher-Smith)的高雅指甲造型由美甲师艾米丽·吉尔摩(Emily Gilmour)设计,它重现了葛饰北斋的名作《神奈川冲浪里》、法国射击运动员梅兰妮·库齐(Mélanie Couzy)和香港游泳运动员郑莉梅的指甲造型都有爱国图案。至少一名运动员表示,造型是为了提高成绩。为美国赢得体操全能金牌的苏妮莎·李(Sunisa Lee)说,她那长长的方形奥运五环假指甲(由明尼阿波利斯的Little deluxe Nail Lounge提供)给她带来了“好运”,帮助她赢得了比赛。

“Whenever I miss the bar, it hurts really bad, so it makes me catch the bar,” Ms. Lee said. “That’s why I get them.”

苏妮莎·李说,“每次没抓到杠都会很疼,所以它促使我去抓住杠,”她说。“这就是我戴假指甲的原因。”

Inked Skin Was In, Despite Local Tattoo Taboos

尽管当地有禁忌,文身还是很流行


Tattoos may be considered taboo in Japan, but they were omnipresent on the elite athletes gathered in Tokyo. While countless stars have Olympic rings commemoratively inked on their feet, arms, necks or abs — the gymnast Simone Biles and the swimmers Caeleb Dressel and Adam Peaty among them — others showed off more ambitious body art.

在日本,文身可能被视为禁忌,但在聚集于东京的顶级运动员身上,文身无处不在。无数明星都把奥运五环文在脚上、胳膊上、脖子上或腹肌上作为纪念——体操运动员西蒙·拜尔斯(Simone Biles)、游泳运动员凯勒布·德雷塞尔(Caeleb Dressel)和亚当·皮蒂(Adam Peaty)都位列其中——其他人则展示了更野心勃勃的身体艺术。

“It slowly just became an addiction,” the American skateboarder Nyjah Huston said of his sprawling sleeve and neck tattoos. Mr. Peaty, of Britain, who has a large lion on his arm, said the tattoo “represented not fearing who I am up against.”

“它慢慢成了一种瘾,”美国滑板运动员奈雅·休斯顿(Nyjah Huston)谈到蔓延在他手臂和脖子上的文身时说。来自英国的皮蒂胳膊上有一头大狮子,他说,这个文身“代表着不畏惧我所面对的对手”。

And the Puerto Rican hurdler Jasmine Camacho-Quinn paid tribute to the “todo es posible” (anything is possible) tattoo on the inside of her wrist. She got the tattoo after falling in the semifinals in Rio in 2016.

波多黎各跨栏选手贾丝明·卡马乔-奎恩(Jasmine Camacho-Quinn)没有忘记手腕内侧的“todo es possible”(一切皆有可能)文身的功劳。2016年在里约奥运会半决赛中失利后,她文上了这个文身。

“I wasn’t going to let that race take over my life,” she said after winning gold in the 100-meter hurdles in Tokyo. “It’s on my lead arm when I run. It comes up to my face. So it’s kind of like a message too.” (She also has a tattoo of Puerto Rico overlaid with Olympic rings on her bicep.)

“我不会让比赛占据我的生活,”她在东京赢得100米跨栏金牌后说。“当我跑步的时候,它就在我的引导臂上。它会到我面前。所以这也像一种讯息。”(她的二头肌上还文有波多黎各地图,上面叠加着奥运五环。)

Nastia Liukin’s Glittering TV Wardrobe

娜斯佳·柳金的闪亮电视衣橱


Hair jewels, bold color prints and lots of bare skin. All familiar sights in the gymnastic arena, perhaps, but less so on television commentators. Step forward, Nastia Liukin.

珠宝发饰、大胆的彩色印花和大量裸露的皮肤。也许这些都是体操场上熟悉的景象,但在电视评论员们身上就不那么熟悉了。娜斯佳·柳金(Nastia Liukin)走上前来。

Ms. Liukin clearly honed her personal style from her own time on the mat: She is the 2008 Olympics all-around champion and a five-time medalist for the United States. As a pundit for NBC this year, she brought her wardrobe A-game to Tokyo. The looks included a tangerine power suit with matching Nike sneakers, a shimmering raspberry jacket and leather shorts, a one-shouldered pink pantsuit with flared legs and a braid inspired by Elsa from “Frozen.”

柳金显然是在自己的体操生涯中磨练出了个人风格:她是2008年奥运会体操全能冠军,为美国赢得了五枚奖牌。作为美国全国广播公司(NBC)今年的评论员,她把自己的拿手好戏——衣着——搬到了东京。这些装扮包括橘红色套装和同色耐克运动鞋,闪闪发光的树莓色夹克和短皮裤,粉色单肩连身喇叭裤和以《冰雪奇缘》(Frozen)中艾尔莎(Elsa)为灵感的编发。

Ms. Liukin’s stylist, Gabriela Tena, told Women’s Wear Daily that there had been intensive preparation for her moment in the spotlight.

柳金的造型师加布里埃拉·特纳(Gabriela Tena)告诉《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily),他们为她的焦点时刻做了密集准备。

“Everything is thought out, really symbolic and very detailed regarding the colors that she’s wearing,” Ms. Tena said. “We try to do a different color for each look.”

“她穿的每件衣服都是经过深思熟虑的,非常有象征意义,也非常细致,”特纳说。“我们试着在每个造型上运用不同的颜色。”

Tom Daley Unwinding in the Stands

在看台上放松的汤姆·戴利(Tom Daley)


Days after Tom Daley won his gold medal in the men’s synchronized 10-meter platform, the British diver became the center of attention once again when he was spotted knitting in the spectator stands. The internet was in stitches.

在汤姆·戴利赢得男子双人10米跳台金牌几天后,这位英国跳水运动员再次成为关注焦点,因为人们发现他在观众席上织毛衣。整个互联网都忍俊不禁。

It soon emerged that Mr. Daley’s talents extend far beyond making purple dog sweaters. On a dedicated Instagram account with almost a million followers, he posts snaps of his crafty creations, including colorful crochet sweaters that would give Jonathan Anderson a run for his money, and a little flag-emblazoned pouch for the latest addition to his trophy cabinet.

很快人们就发现,戴利的才能远远超出了制作紫色狗狗毛衣的范围。在一个拥有近100万粉丝的Instagram专用帐户上,他发布了自己精心创作的图片,包括能和乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)一较高下的彩色钩针毛衣,以及为他奖牌陈列柜里的最新成员制作的一个饰有国旗的小袋子。

“The one thing that has kept me sane throughout this whole process is my love for knitting and crochet and all things stitching,” he said in a video, before displaying his latest and most ambitious D.I.Y. project yet: an oversize cream cardigan with the Olympic rings and “Team GB” on the back.

“在整个过程中,有一件事让我保持理智,那就是我对针织、钩针和所有针线活的热爱,”他在一段视频中说。随后,他展示了自己最新、也是最雄心勃勃的DIY项目:一件背后织有奥运五环和“Team GB”(英国队)字样的大号奶油色毛衣开衫。
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