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米兰时装周将配饰价格提升到新的层级

Rich Accessories, in More Ways Than One
米兰时装周将配饰价格提升到新的层级

MILAN — Purses so precious that they are trimmed with genuine precious stones and shoes dripping in decoration have taken accessories to another level — artistically and in price.

米兰——贵重的手包上镶嵌着真正的宝石,鞋子上坠着各种装饰,这些都让配饰在艺术上和价格上提升到了一个新的高度。

The jewel in the crown may be Valextra’s collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre — putting a watch (detachable by two interior clips) as a decorative and useful addition to a handbag.

其中最珍贵的当属Valextra手包与积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)手表的结合——在手包上装一块手表(由手包里的两个夹子固定,可以拆卸),既是一种装饰,也有实用价值。
 

This idea of transformation and addition is very much in the Valextra sprit, where narrow chains offer the alternative of dangling a handbag from the shoulder. The message here is of a super lightness that makes the box-shaped zippered bags a treasure for a modern woman.

Valextra对手包的改造和添加大多表现在包带上,这些窄窄的带子可以把手提包变成肩挎包。目的是显著减轻箱形拉链手包的负重,把它变成现代女性的百宝箱。

Ironically, the invention of the purse/watch hybrid comes at a moment when a younger generation often abandons an everyday watch for the cellphone timekeeper. But with this version, there will be no scrabbling around interior pockets for the phone as the watch face is on the outside.

可笑的是,这个“手包/手表”二合一的发明诞生在如今这个年代里:年轻人一般都不用手表,而是看手机上的时间。但是它也有长处:要看时间的话,你不用在口袋里摸索半天去找手机了,手表的盘面就露在手包外面。

Bulgari, as befits a jewelry house, has made its accessory offering rich — in numbers and in quality. The collection of bags put together in the name of Isabella Rossellini, the house “mascot,” is beyond price, because the craftsmanship of the Italian artisans aims to take the purses up to the level of fine jewelry.

宝格丽(Bulgari)推出的配饰样式丰富,价格昂贵——对这个以珠宝起家的公司来说,这很合适。这一系列的手包以公司的“福星”——伊莎贝拉·罗西里尼(Isabella Rossellini)——命名,价格非常昂贵,因为意大利技师们意在以高超的工艺把手包的价格提升到上等珠宝的水平。

For example, a pattern of ginko leaves takes 72 hours of handwork, while topaz, amethyst and jade are worked into a clasp.

比如,银杏叶图案要花72个小时的手工,而扣子要用黄玉、紫水晶和翡翠做成。

A high-end handbag at the couture level, therefore, includes the “basic” skin (read: alligator or python). Then there is the treatment of the leather, like intarsia weaving of mother of pearl with gold or snakeskin worked like the spine of a fish. Then comes the jeweled clasp or handle. The price — according to the materials used — is from €3,000, or about $3,900, but think ever upward.

定制级高档手袋首先是选用“基本”的皮质(比如鳄鱼皮或蟒蛇皮)。接下来是对皮质的处理,比如手工把黄金镶嵌到贝壳上,或者把蟒皮做成鱼脊柱的样子。然后是制作镶嵌珠宝的扣子或提手。起价是3000欧元(大约合3900美元),根据所用材料的不同,价格还会更高。

At Jimmy Choo, the new creative directors Sandra Choi and Simon Holloway had a Gypsy spirit — or, as they described it — a “tassel obsession.”

周仰杰(Jimmy Choo)的新创意总监桑德拉·崔(Sandra Choi)和西蒙·霍洛威(Simon Holloway)有点吉普赛精神——或者像他们所说的——“痴迷于流苏”。

The concept of a magpie collector came out as tassels and other treasures in vivid colors, dangling like decoration from a sand brown satchel bag — or the same decorative ideas on high-heeled snake shoes.

收藏癖的概念体现在流苏以及颜色鲜艳的珠宝上,这些装饰品从沙褐色的挎包上垂下来,晃晃荡荡的——跟蛇皮高跟鞋的装饰概念一样。

Taking Art Deco as one of several ideas, the designers set that early 20th-century streamlining against a vision that belongs to the new millennium: digital flower patterns transforming a bag into a computer-created Garden of Eden.

设计师将装饰艺术作为设计理念之一,把20世纪初的流线型与新世纪的数码印花图案相结合,把手包变成了电脑创造出来的伊甸园。
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