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镜头中的亚历山大·麦昆

McQueen Backstage, in Front of the Lens
镜头中的亚历山大·麦昆

THE coming weeks will bring at least three monographs examining the life of Alexander McQueen, including a biography by Judith Watt, the fashion historian at Central Saint Martins, as well as books made up almost entirely of images from his fantastic runway shows, which in themselves have enormous value.

接下来的几周,至少会有3部探究亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的专著面世,包括中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院的时装历史学家朱迪思·瓦特(Judith Watt)写的传记,还有一些书几乎全是由他精彩时装秀的图片组成,这些图片本身有很高的价值。

But a different perspective on the designer, one that until now had been shared by a very small number of his intimates, comes from the photographer Anne Deniau.

摄影师安妮·德尼欧(Anne Deniau)从不同的视角对这位设计师进行了记录;她拍摄的这些照片到目前为止只有麦昆的几位密友看到过。
 

亚历山大·麦昆谢幕。

Starting when Mr. McQueen went to work at Givenchy in 1997, Ms. Deniau, whose usual subjects are artists, dancers and musicians, was hired to create backstage images for the designer’s archives and publicity materials, only a fraction of which were ever seen publicly. In “Love Looks Not With the Eyes: Thirteen Years With Lee Alexander McQueen,” she compiled 400 images that give a sense of life behind the scenes, during those great bursts of creativity just before a show.

德尼欧的拍照工作从1997年麦昆先生去纪梵希工作时便已开始。她一向以艺术家、舞蹈家和音乐家为拍摄对象,当时受邀拍摄麦昆先生幕后的照片,供介绍和宣传之用;公众只看到过其中一小部分。在《用爱去看,而不是用眼睛:与李·亚历山大·麦昆的30年》(Love Looks Not With the Eyes: Thirteen Years With Lee Alexander McQueen)这本书中,她整理了400张照片,让大家看到设计师在时装秀开始之前创造力大爆发时的幕后生活。

“He was a very, very faithful person, which is quite unusual in fashion,” Ms. Deniau said of Mr. McQueen, who committed suicide in 2010. “When he gave you his interest, it was heavy. It was engraved.”

“他是一个非常,非常忠诚的人,这在时装界很不常见,”德尼欧这样看待于2010年自杀身亡的麦昆先生:“当他对你表现出兴趣的时候,他是认真的;这让人难以忘怀。”

Mr. McQueen was nonetheless a challenging subject, one who was known to walk from his runway bow into a waiting car, before the models had all left the runway, so he would not have to talk to anyone. Ms. Deniau said that for a portrait sitting, he would always ask if she was finished after three or four pictures. Often he would flinch at the sound of a camera click.

麦昆无疑是一个有挑战性的主题。要知道,他在秀台上鞠躬谢幕之后会径直登上备好的汽车,在模特们还没有完全离场之前离开,这样他就不用跟任何人说话了。德尼欧说,坐着拍肖像的时候,才拍了三四张,他就不停地问拍完了没有。相机的快门声往往会让他缩一下。

Somehow she gained his trust. The pictures are evocative of the torture, the toughness and, most of all, the tenderness of Mr. McQueen, as when he is seen with Sarah Burton or the milliner Philip Treacy. You may get little impression of the clothes, but the emotion is there.

不管怎样,她还是获得了他的信任。这些照片令人们回想起麦昆承受的痛苦与他的坚强,但更多的,还是他的柔弱,尤其是他跟莎拉·波顿(Sarah Burton)或女帽设计大师菲利普·崔西(Philip Treacy)在一起的时候。你可能对其中的衣服没有什么感觉,但你能体会到当时的情绪。

“I wanted the images to be full of poetry, for the light to be beautiful like you would see in a studio, except that actually you had half a second to take the picture and no lighting,” Ms. Deniau said. “I was telling stories, but these stories had to be connected to Lee’s work.”

“我想让这些照片充满诗意,因为设计室里的灯光都很漂亮,但是拍照片的时间只有0.5秒,而且不能用闪光灯,”德尼欧说:“我是在讲故事,但是这些故事必须跟李的作品结合起来。”
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